Hi from the sunny Mediterranean – currently sailing in a superb ferry to Nice after a lovely tour of Corsica which is every bit as scenic as we both remember from 20 years ago!
Since last writing, we crossed over to the east coast of Sardinia and meandered slowly up the coast. We stopped on harbours and beaches, apart from a hectic 5-site day at Arzachena discovering the nuraghic history of Sardinia, before catching a "quick hop" ferry across to Bonifacio on Corsica. By quick hop, we mean we arrived, bought a ticket, boarded and crossed, driving off the ferry 1 ½ hrs later – in fact it was all so efficient that by the time we got to our van, climbed aboard and started the engine we were alone - everyone else including lorries and buses were unloaded and away!
Bonifacio is a fascinating town, perched on a promontory protecting a huge natural harbour – a walled town of cobbled streets and bags of atmosphere.
Travelling northwards, we enjoyed the coastal route from Ajaccio to Calvi – superb from start to finish. Mostly the overhanging cliffs have been blasted but in parts we still had to beware with our 3 m height. The staggeringly beautiful rock formations, in particular Les Calanques between Piana and Porto, are just breathtaking - luckily there was plenty of opportunity to park up and walk awhile. At Calvi, the French foreign legion still trains 1,000 troops. Did you know that foreigners can still join with completed anonymity and immunity – in return for 5 years' service they get automatic French citizenship and a "clean slate"? Our guide book tells us that the recruits are mainly from the Baltic States nowadays. Most of the citadel is still closed to the public but we enjoyed walking the cobbled streets, and climbed up to Notre Dame de la Serra for a superb view of the citadel and surrounding coastline.
After a few days here we headed inland to the mountains, exchanging warm coastal nights for crisp mountain air. Our friends Barry & Margaret had recommended Tattone and there we found a friendly, family-fun campsite with ample opportunity for walking – either joining the GR20 route direct or flagging down the little train that chugs through the mountains to explore another section. Dubbed "the trembler", it trundles between Bastia, Ajaccio and Calvi along a remarkable line constructed in the late 19th century and ranks among the world's great scenic railways.
Next we travelled north to explore Cap Corse, an "island" within an island, 40 km long and 10 km wide, once again offering switchback roads, excellent rocky scenery and dotted with charming coastal villages. Here we found a lovely campsite on the beach; also our only "wild camping" on the harbour of Macinaggio, although we had to ask permission from the Capitaine (harbour master).
Finally, we settled for a few days just south of Bastia on an excellent campsite perched between the lagoon of Marana and the beautiful calm, blue sea, even venturing into the water for a swim – which shows just how warm the weather has been. We cycled into Bastia and around the lagoon, found an excellent Auberge and, as the final "piece de resistance", we managed to book a "jackpot" ferry trip saving 100 euros on the fare! And here we are on a 5-hour luxury cruise – we have fresh croissants and coffee (both excellent), there is a sun lounge (glass-walled to protect from the wind) on deck with a pool, traditional deckchairs and a pool bar, and down on the car deck enough width on each lane for any vehicle. Luxury indeed.
So, some thoughts of our nearly 5-month tour of these 3 islands:
Sicily - Dear to our hearts, wild and unkempt, easy-going (except on the roads) and more wine produced than in the whole of Chile! Good wine at that!
Sardinia – If you like wonderful beaches, you will LOVE Sardinia. The best description we can come up with is "a green and pleasant land". After the manic driving of Sicily it was indeed a pleasant surprise, with gorgeous beaches and a calm nature. Plus fascinating archeological sites which are unique in Europe.
Corsica – wild scenery, the strong perfume of the maquis and pine forests, mountains of the interior and cliffs hanging into the sea – a truly majestic little island.
Would we return ??? YES
Bonifacio, the Port of Arrival in Corsica from Sardinia |
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A Red Kite circling high above Propriano |
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The Magnificence of Les Calanques on the West Coast |
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Calvi, on the west coast |
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Tattone, high among the Granite Mountains of the centre. |
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Cap Corse, the remote Northern tip of the Island |
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