Cycle Hire: Since May 2014, Annwen Jones, has provided cycle hire based near the car park in the Trevor canal basin, next to the World Heritage Site of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. Annwen will deliver bicycles free of charge within a 5-mile radius which includes Chirk and Llangollen. She also offers other services for the cyclist, including a map of cycling routes along the canal, the booking of local attractions (for example, Chirk Castle) and general advice on cycling in the area covered by this article.
The Ceiriog Valley lies in north-east Wales, on the border with the English county of Shropshire. The valley runs west from Chirk (just off the A5 north of Oswestry) into the Berwyn Mountains The next valley to the north is the much busier Llangollen Valley, which carries the A5 to Snowdonia and on to Holyhead.
From Chirk the valley road follows the River Ceiriog (a tributary of the Dee) upstream for 12 miles, passing through the hamlets of Pontfadog, Dolywern, Glyn Ceiriog, Pandy and Tregeiriog before reaching Llanarmon DC at its head.
After Llanarmon, 4 lanes climb steeply in different directions, heading into the mountains. One of these lanes leads over the famous Wayfarer's Pass and then down into the Dee Valley, south of Corwen.
Above all, the Ceiriog Valley provides access to a wide-ranging selection of quiet lanes, weaving their way along and across the numerous valleys which lead down from the Berwyns towards the English Border. These rides always involve steep climbs, frequently between 1:5 and 1:8 with height gains of at least 1,000 ft and often in excess of 2,000 ft.
Our Base: For the cycle rides described below, we stayed at Stabl y Ddol, the little campsite just half a mile before Pontfadog, on the right, coming from Chirk. This was an excellent base, costing ₤10 per night or ₤50 a week for our motorhome, with a good electrical hook up, water, modern toilets and free hot showers.
Several other campsites serve the Valley. The short name (in brackets) is our waypoint name on the route maps:
1. (StabCamp) Stabl y Ddol, on the B4500 from Chirk less than a mile before PONTFADOG (Camping & Caravanning Club CS). Tel Huw Edwards on 01691-718846 or 07974- 828124. www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk
2. (CC Camp) Lady Margaret's Park at CHIRK Castle(Caravan Club Site – Members only: no tents). Tel 01691-777200. www.caravanclub.co.uk
3. (Quinta) Quinta Christian Centre, Weston Rhyn, 1 mile SW of CHIRK (Caravan Club CL – Members only). Tel 01691-773696. www.quinta.org
4. (HaltonFm) Halton Farm, 1.5 miles NE of CHIRK (Caravan Club CL – Members only). Tel 01691-772401.
5. (DdolHir) Ddol Hir Caravan Park, Pandy Road, GLYN CEIRIOG. (Camping & Caravanning Club listed – Open to all). Tel 01691-718681.
In addition to camping, accommodation is available in the Valley at Chirk, Pontfadog, Glyn Ceiriog and Llanarmon. Coffee and meals are available in Chirk (café, fish & chips, hotels and an Indian Restaurant), Pontfadog (hotel), Glyn Ceiriog (café and hotel) and Llanarmon (2 hotels).See our very detailed article on this subject.
Maps and Profiles: The rides described here were recorded on our Magellan Meridian Color GPS receiver, enabling us to give accurate measurements of height gained and to share maps and profiles of the routes. In addition, we used the excellent Ordnance Survey Explorer Map No 255 titled 'Llangollen and Berwyn' and No 240 'Oswestry', both on a scale of 4 cm to 1 km or 2˝ inches to 1 mile. This series shows all public rights of way, national trails and long-distance routes: the Offa's Dyke Path crosses the lower reaches of the Ceiriog Valley, passing Chirk Castle and Thomas Telford's Aqueduct, which carries the Llangollen Canal over the Valley and the River Ceiriog.For Rides Twelve and Fourteen, we added OS Landranger Map 125 'Bala & Lake Vyrnwy'.
See links to all our maps, photographs and profiles at: The Ceiriog Rides
Our Paul Hewitt Bicycles: Although we tend to take care of our new Paul Hewitt Touring Bicycles by riding on firm surfaces, our 700x35C Schwalbe Marathon XR tyres and strong hand-built wheels do allow us to ride tracks and open moorland, when required. Short sections of 'rough stuff' are included in these rides, but there are very many much rougher rides available for those with that inclination, up or down. Not least, forests cover some of the higher ground and the Berwyn Mountains themselves comprise vast areas of open country, much of it designated 'Access Land' on the OS Explorer Map.
Word of Warning! We give the distance for each of the fourteen rides described below, measured from and back to our base near Pontfadog at a starting height of 400 ft. Remember, however, that distance does not equate with difficulty in these Welsh mountains! The rides can of course be undertaken to and from anywhere in the Ceiriog Valley.
RIDE ONE: The length of the Ceiriog Valley from Chirk to Llanarmon-Dyffryn-Ceiriog and return
Distance: 24 miles return Height Climbed: 1,200 ft Maximum Height: 890 ft
The first ride follows the Ceiriog Valley on B4500 from Chirk up to Llanarmon DC, a total distance of 12 miles with an overall climb of 1,200 ft. The ride passes through Pontfadog, Dolywern, Glyn Ceiriog, Pandy and Tregeiriog before reaching Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog.
Minor variations include:
(1) Turning left soon after leaving Pontfadog and following a back lane to Llwynmawr and into Dolywern.
(2) Keeping straight on at the sharp left turn before the bridge in Dolywern and following a back lane with a short climb into Glyn Ceiriog.
(3) Soon after the Ddoll Hir Campsite, turn left through an open gate to follow a bridleway along the track of the old Glyn Valley Tramway on the edge of the river, bypassing Pandy. At the end of the track , turn right and climb up to rejoin the main Valley road just below the Pony Trekking station at Pont y Meibion. An information board tells of the tramway's history, serving slate and granite quarries in the valley.
RIDE TWO: A Clockwise Mountain Circuit via Llanarmon-Dyffryn-Ceiriog and Nantyr
Distance: 18 miles Height Climbed: 2,200 ft Maximum Height: 1,600 ft
Along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, continuing through Pandy and Tregeiriog, taking any of the alternative sections listed under Ride One.
Turn right up the lane just before the bridge over the Ceiriog into Llanarmon – or continue across the bridge, if you want to take a break at the Hand Hotel or in the Riverside Gardens behind the West Arms hotel. There are also public toilets and a phone box. (There's a mobile Orange signal, but no Vodafone, along the Ceiriog Valley). Then return over the bridge and take the first lane on the left, a tough climb up a 1-in-4 hill (signposted as a cycle route!)
This lane leads onto an unsealed stony track (the Upper Ceiriog Way), running north over the moorland, grazed by hill-sheep. The route follows and crosses a stream, which was swollen from recent heavy rains. You may need to walk some of it, uphill and down for about 2 miles, with a high point of 1,600 ft on the moors.
Turn right when you meet a tarmac road at a T-junction. At the next junction, at the top of a short hill, take the second left for a further climb and a ride round the head of a wooded valley and relics of former slate mining. Now on a road high on the ridge between the Ceiriog and Llangollen Valleys, continue past the left turn for Llangollen and past the right turn for Glyn Ceiriog (a short steep drop). A second turning for Glyn Ceiriog should also be ignored. Take the next turning right, signposted for Pontfadog. After a short drop, take the next left to drop steeply and suddenly down into Pontfadog and rejoin the B4500 by the Swan Hotel. Turn left towards Chirk, or right towards Glyn Ceiriog.
RIDE THREE: An Anticlockwise Circuit via Llanarmon-Dyffryn-Ceiriog, Rhiwlas, Offa's Dyke and Bronygarth
Distance: 25 miles Height Climbed: 3,000 ft Maximum Height: 1,450 ft
Along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, continuing through Pandy and Tregeiriog to Llanarmon, taking any of the alternative sections listed under Ride One.
In Llanarmon, cross the river and turn left at the signpost (to Rhiwlas-Llansillin-Oswestry).It's a steep climb to Pensarn, downhill to Rhiwlas, and then quiet lanes wending down the valley through Hafod and Cefn Canol to Rhyd y Croeseau. After another mile, at Llawnt, turn left for a climb up to a farm house at Carreg y Big where you take a left, climbing steadily to take the next right at Llechrydau and the high point of the ride.
Dropping down to meet the main Glyn Ceiriog - Selattyn road (B4579), turn left and then immediately right onto a narrow track which climbs and then falls. Turn right at Plas Newydd to cross Offa's Dyke and drop down into Bronygarth.
Turn left in Bronygarth and continue west, looking for views of Chirk Castle across the Ceiriog Valley. Cross the River Ceiriog and rejoin B4500 at Herber Gate, 2 miles east of Pontfadog.
RIDE FOUR: An Anticlockwise Circuit via Llanarmon-Dyffryn-Ceiriog and Llangadwaldr
Distance: 23 miles Height Climbed: 2,500 ft Maximum Height: 1,360 ft
Along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, continuing through Pandy and Tregeiriog to Llanarmon, taking any of the alternative sections listed under Ride One.
At the crossroads in Llanarmon, ride straight on (signposted Llanrhaeadr YM), climbing high above the valley on a narrow lane which is 1 in 6 initially. At the next junction, at the top of the hill, turn left in the direction of Llanrhaeadr YM. Turn left off this road after about 2 miles, climb steeply past a chapel and take a left round a steep hairpin and up to Llangadwaladr (where there is a church and a disused phone box).
Enjoy a 2.5 mile freewheel down a valley to the next crossroads, where you turn left for a climb through woodland, keeping left at the next junction, to reach Rhiwlas. (From here you can turn right to lengthen the ride by returning via Bronygarth, as in Ride Three).
Turning left instead, there is a good climb up to Pensarn and a right turn for a swift drop into Tregeiriog in the Ceiriog Valley (or continue for a longer and gentler descent to Llanarmon).
Return to Glyn Ceiriog and Pontfadog along B4500 through Pandy.
RIDE FIVE: To Pistyll Rhaeadr Waterfall and Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant
Distance: 36 miles Height Climbed: 3,400 ft Maximum Height: 1,450 ft
Ride along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, continuing through Pandy and Tregeiriog to Llanarmon, taking any of the alternative sections listed under Ride One.
At the crossroads in Llanarmon ride straight on (signposted Llanrhaeadr YM), climbing high above the valley on a narrow lane which is 1 in 6 initially. Continue straight over the next junction (see below), climbing briefly and then enjoying a long steep descent. Turn left at the T-junction at the foot of the hill, to follow a river valley southwards (on the west side of Mynydd Mawr Mountain) before climbing again to a right turn (signposted 'Waterfall) after about 3.5 miles (rather than continuing straight into Llanrhaedr YM). Follow this narrow lane through a farmyard to the next T-junction.
A sharp left would take you to Llanrhaedr YM. Instead, turn right and continue along the narrow road that follows the River Rhaeadr to the waterfall at its head (beware traffic, especially on summer weekends). Pistyll Rhaeadr (some 18 miles from our base near Pontfadog) is one of the 'Seven Wonders of Wales': the country's highest waterfall. The falls are a very short walk from the car park at the end of the road - a good place for a break or a picnic. There are toilets, a shelter, a phone box, a small campsite and a cafe/restaurant which offers B&B. On the last Saturday in July, we even found a busker playing guitar for his lunch (he should have gone hungry!).
Return downhill along the river, all the way to the village of Llanrhaeadr YM (grocery shop, post office/store, HSBC bank, phone box, public toilets, café/pub and a couple of other shops).
Leaving Llanrhaeadr, climb uphill on the main road past the Handi Pub. Turn off this main road at the top of the hill (at the end of the village), but don't take the left turn heading north-west into the hills. Instead, follow the road skirting the east side of Mynydd Mawr Mountain which, within a mile, drops you down and then up a 1in 4 hill!
5 or 6 miles of pleasant riding then culminate in a steady climb, to rejoin the road you rode earlier out of Llanarmon. Turn right to retrace your route, this time steeply down hill into Llanarmon and back along the Ceiriog Valley via Tregeiriog and Pandy.
RIDE SIX: To Chirk via the Nantyr Forest and the Ridge Road
Distance: 20 miles Height Climbed: 1,670 ft Maximum Height: 1,345 ft
Along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog following the route described in Ride One. Continue towards Pandy, but take a right turn after a third of a mile, before leaving Glyn Ceiriog, steeply uphill, signposted Nantyr.
Follow the climb up to the edge of the Nantyr Forest. Turn first right and right again at the T-junction, riding round the head of a valley containing an old slate mine and continue along the ridge road. Always following signs for Chirk, a great ride (with views into the Llangollen Valley and out over Shropshire) leads to a right turn after about 8 miles, where straight on would lead down into Froncysyllte. Dropping increasingly steeply, go straight across the next crossroads, left at the T-junction and turn left again at the back entrance to Chirk Castle (13thC, National Trust).
Turn right at the next crossroads and descend, crossing the line of Offa's Dyke behind Chirk Castle. Turn left after the wrought iron front gates of the castle (straight on takes you into the Caravan Club site). At the foot of the hill, you cross the Llangollen canal, where it is about to enter a tunnel (see Ride Ten), and over the railway line by Chirk station. At the roundabout turn right to return, past the northern end of Chirk Aqueduct, to Pontfadog/Glyn Ceiriog, or continue straight across for Chirk town centre.
From the centre of Chirk, follow signs for Glyn Ceiriog (a right turn off the B5070). Ride past the northern end of Chirk Aqueduct (built by Telford to carry the Llangollen Canal over the River Ceiriog) and near the beginnings of the canal and railway tunnels. Continue west along B4500, recrossing the line of Offa's Dyke, for the last 4 miles to Pontfadog.
RIDE SEVEN: Over the Border to Oswestry on the Back Lanes (avoiding the very busy A5)
Distance: 16 miles Height Climbed: 730 ft Maximum Height:
Ride east along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) towards Chirk, then take the first right turn (just over a mile from our base near Pontfadog), across the river Ceiriog. Climb steadily with good views of Chirk Castle to the left, entering Shropshire and England (unsigned) as you follow the road past Quinta Hall on the right (with its small campsite) and straight on to the village of Weston Rhyn.
Turn right (south) at the 5-way crossroads in the village, then left in half a mile into a narrow lane. Continue straight on through all junctions. Past Hengoed, ride straight over at the next crossroads, where a left would lead to the A5 below Gobowen and a right would give a climb up to Selattyn.
Within half a mile, along the narrow lane, turn right to follow a short section of National Cycle Route 31 (part of Sustrans National Cycle Network) into Oswestry. The route runs past the west side of a 3,000 year old (Iron Age) Hill Fort, before dropping directly into the town.
Turn right at the junction with the busy main road (B5069). On the left you will see the Cambrian Visitor Centre/Railway Transport Museum in the old station (toilets, café, information). On the right are 2 large supermarkets flanking Oswestry bus station.
Continue into the busy town centre for more places to eat or shop in a pedestrianised zone (with a large market on Wednesday and Saturday). The Heritage Centre, in the old grammar school by St Oswald's Church, also has a café and tourist information, including a good selection of leaflets on cycling in Shropshire. (Just ask – they are kept under the counter!)
Return by the same route via Weston Rhyn.
For a longer ride with more climbing, follow the outward route as far as the crossroads before Hengoed, then turn left for Selattyn. From Selattyn you can turn right, through Wern, to Weston Rhyn.
RIDE EIGHT: To Spring Hill and Bronygarth
Distance: 13 miles Height Climbed: 1,600 ft Maximum Height: 1,450 ft
Ride east along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, following the route described in Ride One. In the village turn left in the centre, past the Post Office and over the river bridge, then sharp right to begin a long climb. (Straight on over the bridge would take you up to Selattyn - see Ride Twelve, Part 1).
Passing Upper Mills Trout Farm/B&B on the right, the lane climbs steeply up Spring Hill. Continue past Spring Hill Stables, then turn left (east) when the road forks. Climb, passing through gates at Llechrydau farm, then turn left for the high point of the ride.
Dropping down to meet the main Glyn Ceiriog - Selattyn road (B4579), turn left and then immediately right onto a narrow track which climbs and then falls. Turn right at Plas Newydd to cross Offa's Dyke and drop down into Bronygarth.
Turn left in Bronygarth and continue west, looking for views of Chirk Castle across the Ceiriog Valley. Cross the River Ceiriog and rejoin B4500 at Herber Gate, 2 miles east of Pontfadog.
RIDE NINE: The Wayfarer's Pass over the Berwyn Mountains to Corwen, returning from Glyndyfrdwy via Nantyr Forest
Distance: 37 miles Height Climbed: 3,300 ft Maximum Height: 1,903 ft
Note: This is a full day's ride – we recommend a packed lunch!
Along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, continuing through Pandy and Tregeiriog to Llanarmon, taking any of the alternative sections listed under Ride One. After crossing the bridge in Llanarmon, turn right along a sealed lane (signposted Swch-Cae-Rhiw). This follows the upper reaches of the River Ceiriog, initially climbing less steeply than the other 3 routes out of Llanarmon.
After about 2 miles, straight on by Swch-Cae-Rhiw farm, the lane turns into 5 miles of unsurfaced track, leading over the Berwyn Mountains via the Wayfarer's Pass. It is high open grouse moorland, the source of the Ceiriog. The path had eroded considerably since our last crossing, several years ago, when we had ridden all but a short steep section. Over-use by 4WD vehicles has now roughened and damaged the track, to the extent that we were forced to walk about 3 miles of it, on either side of the pass. It was too rough for climbing or freewheeling, though not particularly steep.
The pass, 13 miles from our base near Pontfadog, is at 1,903 ft. A memorial plaque placed by the RSF (the cyclists' Rough Stuff Fellowship), dedicated to 'Wayfarer – A lover of Wales – 1877-1956' marks the top. Beside it is a tin box containing a Wayfarer's log and a pen. This is a good place for a break, sitting on the rocks opposite a cairn in splendid isolation. It's sad, not to say pathetic, that the Wayfarer's log is mainly used to record the achievement of drivers and passengers in 4WD vehicles and motorbikes: the very ones who have ruined the experience for real travelers, on foot or bicycle!
Continue to cycle/walk the path down the other side, regaining tarmac after exactly 5.5 miles of rough track. Keep right at the only fork in the track, descending through woodland to meet road B4401.
Turn right and follow this road for 4 miles through Cynwyd, to turn right on the A5 before entering Corwen, a small town by the River Dee (shops, café, pub).
From the centre of Corwen, turn left for the bridge across the Dee, then go right on B5437. (This is a splendid back road which avoids riding the busy A5 to Glyndyfrdwy.) Continue for 8 miles, passing through Carog (where there is a campsite by the river), then cross the river at the next bridge, straight into Glyndyfrdwy, where you turn left at the A5.
Almost immediately, turn right into a steep narrow lane, appropriately signed 'Unsuitable for Motors'. It climbs relentlessly for about 3 miles but the surface is sealed and it is rideable in a very low gear.
A gate and cattle grid mark the top of the climb and the start of shady woodland, where the lane becomes much easier. Continue through Nantyr Forest, past a disused car park, to the junction with the ridge road to Chirk. Turn left on a sealed road and keep left at any further junctions until you reach a left turn for Llangollen, which you ignore. Shortly after, at Finger Farm, turn right for a very steep drop into Glyn Ceiriog (1 in 4 or 25% down by the church). Pause part way down to cool your brake blocks at the lovely church with its peaceful graveyard. Turn left by the Vicarage, before dropping into Glyn Ceiriog village, if you are returning to Pontfadog.
Alternatively, as we did, you can pass the right turn at Finger Farm and continue along the ridge. A second turning for Glyn Ceiriog should also be ignored, but take the next turning right, signposted Pontfadog. After a short drop, take the next left to drop steeply and suddenly down into Pontfadog and rejoin B4500 by the Swan Hotel. Here, turn left towards Chirk, or right towards Glyn Ceiriog.
RIDE TEN: A Canal Towpath Ride from Chirk to Horseshoe Falls, returning from Llangollen over the Hills to Glyn Ceiriog
Distance: 24 miles Height Climbed: 1,750 ft Maximum Height: 1,287 ft
2. Officially, a cycling permit should be obtained in advance (free of charge) from the British Waterways Board, Navigation Road, Northwich, Cheshire, CW8 1BH. Tel: 01606 723800. Email: You can also download and print your own permit from: www.waterscape.com. However, the information office at the Trevor end of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct did not think that we needed such a pass - and the free guide book they issue does not mention it!
3. Overall, the towpath is unsurfaced but firm and level. Take care when overtaking (especially dog-walkers), as the water's edge is unfenced except in the tunnels!
Route
Initially, ride east along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road), almost into Chirk. Immediately after crossing the Llangollen Canal, turn right down a short footpath to join the canal towpath at the end of Chirk Aqueduct. Turn right (away from the aqueduct) and follow the towpath through Chirk Tunnel (459 yards). The tunnel is unlit, except by the lights of any narrow-boats passing through, but a railing separates the path from the water.
(The claustrophobic can avoid the adventure of Chirk Tunnel by turning left at the mini-roundabout after crossing the canal, towards the railway station. Then look for the short footpath leading down to the canal towpath and turn right along the bank.)
Emerging from the tunnel, the canal runs to the west of the town of Chirk, paralleled on the right by the railway which supplanted the canal. Pass Chirk Marina (narrow- boat hire) and golf course, both on the opposite bank, then ride through the shorter unlit Whitehouse Tunnel (191 yards), under the A5.
Before reaching Froncysyllte, just after foot-bridge 26, the B6505 crosses the canal on a lift-bridge (no 27), which has to be lowered and raised by means of a hand winch. You could cross the canal here, as 'cycling' is prohibited on the eastern bank for the next section, up to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct – or walk your bicycle along the western side. (At the time of our ride, the distinctive lift-bridge had stuck part way down, with a frustrated motorist phoning British Waterways. We crossed by carrying our cycles up and down the steps of the adjacent footbridge.)
At the southern end of the Aqueduct there is an information board, describing Thomas Telford's amazing feat of engineering. Completed in 1805 (4 years after his Chirk Aqueduct), it carries the canal in an iron trough (5 ft 3 ins deep) supported by 18 piers of local stone, 126 ft above the River Dee. If you have crossed to the west side of the canal, go through a gate and continue, to find yourself on the opposite side to the aqueduct towpath! Simply go down a few steps, pass beneath the canal and climb a few steps to emerge on the east side.
You must walk your cycle along the footpath beside the canal, breathing in to pass other pedestrians! If you have a head for heights, pause to admire or photograph the River Dee below. Once across the longest aqueduct in Britain (1,007 ft or 305 m), you will see a new plaque commemorating the 250th anniversary of Telford's birth in August 1757. There is also a small free museum/visitor centre on the right, open at weekends, with information leaflets and a map of the canal. Toilets are further along in the car park.
Here you have to cross the canal: either carry your cycle over the footbridge to Trevor Canal Basin, or continue a short distance to ride over the road bridge and then turn left past the Telford Inn and left through the gates into the Canal Basin. It's busy on summer weekends, when you can sit outside the small café/gift shop to drink coffee, have a snack and watch the activity at Anglo-Welsh Narrowboats, which rents self-drive boats by the day or the week. 'Jones the Boats' runs 45-minute boat trips across the Aqueduct from here.
From Trevor Basin, the Canal turns sharply west to parallel the River Dee for 4 miles to Llangollen. Leaving the Basin through the gates, cross over road B5434 and follow the towpath on the north side (the south bank is private housing) for a short distance. Soon, at footbridge 32, you must cross to the south side and continue, taking care as you pass the canal boat moorings before reaching Llangollen Wharf.
You will pass canal-side pubs, eg Bryn Howel Hotel, and there is a busy tea-rooms with toilets at the Wharf, by the stables. A pair of horse-drawn boats ply the next section of the canal from Easter to October.
From Llangollen the canal continues for 2 miles to its source, at Horseshoe Falls on the River Dee - an optional extension to the ride. Sharing the towpath with summer visitors and horses, pass the new pay-and-display Mooring Basin on the right. The path runs behind the Chain Bridge Hotel (with a pleasant garden for drinks and meals) at Llantysilio, then past a Motor Museum half a mile before the Falls.
Cross the footbridge by the winding hole and go through a gate to the wooded banks of the Dee by Horseshoe Falls – a horseshoe-shaped weir designed by Telford to feed the canal. You can rest here by the river and listen to the whistle of the steam or vintage diesel trains which share the narrow valley with the A5. (The footpath which continues further up the valley from here, along the river, is unsuitable for cycling.)
Return along the canal to Llangollen, from where you could follow the towpath back to Chirk for an easy ride. We took one of the shorter but more challenging routes over the hills to Glyn Ceiriog, described below.
From Llangollen Wharf, cross the bridge over the river and descend into the town centre. The popular town, beautifully situated on the banks of the Dee in the Vale of Llangollen, is always busy, especially during the International Eisteddfod in July. There are museums, a Tourist Information centre, shops and cafes aplenty – including Pro Adventure, a camping/cycling shop on Castle Street opposite the TI, which hires mountain bikes, kayaks and other outdoor equipment.
Take the minor road south from the town. After crossing the A5, bear right (and ignore the brown sign which indicates left for Plas Newydd). You will climb steeply high above the Vale on a little-used route, crossing the hills to meet the Ceiriog Cycle Route ridge road at Finger Farm. (For a shorter steeper alternative route from Llangollen to Pontfadog, see Ride Eleven below.)
Turn left towards Chirk, then take the first right for a very swift descent to Glyn Ceiriog (1 in 4 or 25% down by the church). Pause part way down to cool your brake blocks at the lovely church with its peaceful graveyard. Turn left by the Vicarage, before dropping into Glyn Ceiriog village, if you are returning to Pontfadog. (See also the end of Ride Nine).
RIDE ELEVEN: A Shorter Route from Pontfadog to Llangollen over the Hills, returning via the Canal Towpath to Chirk
Distance: 18 miles Height Climbed: 1,000 ft Maximum Height: 1,230 ft
See the 'Notes for Canal Towpath' at the beginning of Ride Ten
This ride reverses the route of Ride Ten, crossing the hills to Llangollen on an alternative, shorter route from Pontfadog, making it more suitable for those who like to get the hard riding over first!
Turn north off B4500 (the Ceiriog Valley road) at Pontfadog and, almost immediately, turn right where the road forks and ride (or walk) steeply north-east through woodland, climbing above the valley and the Stabl y Ddol campsite.
After just over a mile, at the Pen-y-Bryn farm, turn sharply left and keep climbing. Bear left at the next junction. At the top of the hill, you meet the Ceiriog Cycle Route ridge road (from Chirk). Go straight over, then take care on the very narrow and steep descent through Gwernant Wood (just over a mile from top to bottom).
At the foot of the hill, turn left towards Llangollen. After half a mile you pass the brown sign for the house and gardens of Plas Newydd on the right (café and toilets, open Apr-Oct).
Continuing, go across the A5 into the town centre and cross the bridge over the Dee and up a short sharp hill to the Canal Wharf (and tea-rooms).
(You can extend the route by turning left along the canal for 2 miles to its source at Horseshoe Falls, as described in Ride Ten, and return to Llangollen Wharf.)
It is now an easy ride along the lock-free canal towpath to Trevor Basin (4 miles), over the dizzy height of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and through Whitehouse Tunnel to Chirk (the reverse of Ride Ten).
Leave the towpath 3.5 miles after Trevor, just before the entrance to the longer Chirk Tunnel. Turn left at the road, cross the railway bridge by Chirk Station and continue half a mile into Chirk. Alternatively, stay on the towpath through Chirk Tunnel, then turn left up the footpath to rejoin road B4500. See the end of Ride Six.
RIDE TWELVE: A Strenuous Circular Route via Oswestry to Llansantffraid-ym-Mecham, returning via Llanrhaeadr-ym-Mochnant and Llanarmon-Dyffryn Ceiriog
Total Distance: 53 miles Height Climbed: 4,000 ft Maximum Height: 1,461 ft
By now you might be fit enough to ride this route in one day. We spent a more leisurely 2 days, taking a break at Bryn Vyrnwy Caravan/Camping Park in Llansantffraid. For this ride, we added OS Landranger Map 125 'Bala & Lake Vyrnwy'.
Part 1: Ceiriog Valley to Llansantffraid-ym-Mecham
Distance: 25 miles Height Climbed: 1,860 ft Maximum Height: 1,185 ft
Follow B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog. In the village, turn left past the Post Office and over the river bridge. Ride straight on, climbing up B4579. Cross the line of Offa's Dyke at Craignant and continue into the village of Selattyn.
Stay on B4579 towards Oswestry for just over a mile, then turn left on a minor road towards Hengoed for another 2 miles, then turn right. Within half a mile, along the narrow lane, turn right to follow a short section of National Cycle Route 31 (part of Sustrans National Cycle Network) into Oswestry. The route runs past the west side of a 3,000 year old (Iron Age) Hill Fort before dropping directly into the town.
Turn right at the junction with the busy main road (B5069). On the left you will see the Cambrian Visitor Centre/Railway Transport Museum in the old station (toilets, café, information). On the right are 2 large supermarkets flanking the bus station.
Continue into the busy town for more places to eat or shop in a pedestrianised zone (with a large market on Wednesday and Saturday). The Heritage Centre, in the old grammar school by St Oswald's Church, also has a café and tourist information, including a good selection of leaflets on cycling in Shropshire.
(For a short cut which bypasses Oswestry, turn right in Selattyn on a minor road that meet B4580 after about 3 miles. Turn right and straight down the hill to Llawnt and on to Rhydycroesau, then left. Follow the unclassified road south for 3 miles to Croesau Bach and join the route from Oswestry described below.)
From the centre of Oswestry, turn right at St Oswald's Church and Heritage Centre and then continue south-west, past the ancient Oswestry School. After about 3 miles, heading towards Tirefonen, keep right where the road forks at Tyn-y-Coed and continue through Croesau Bach, meeting the above short cut.
A mile and a half after the left turn in Rhydycroesau, turn right in Croesau Bach and take the next left at Pentre Cefn. Narrow lanes fall and rise again before dropping steeply into the Tanat Valley to meet the B4396, where you turn right into Pen-y-bont Llanerch Emrys. (Alternatively, keep straight on at Pentre Cefn rather than turning left, continuing to a cross-roads half a mile south of Llansilin, then turn left, and left again after a mile, and follow the road, meeting B4396 at the same point.)
In Pen-y-bont Llanerch Emrys, turn left at the inn and cross the Tanat River. After 2 miles, up and down again crossing from valley to valley, you meet A495 at the village of Llansantffraid-ym-Mecham on the River Vyrnwy, 15 miles from Oswestry - and a good place to break the ride (shop, pub and 2 campsites).
Part 2: Llansantffraid-ym-Mecham to the Ceiriog Valley
Distance: 28 miles Height Climbed: 2,940 ft Maximum Height: 1,461 ft
At the junction with A495 in Llansantffraid, turn right (west) along B4393, signposted Llanfyllin.
After about 3 miles, turn right into the village of Llanfechain. Pass a pub on the right and the church on the left, then turn left across the River Cain. The lane weaves and climbs its way out of the valley – pay close attention to map and compass at the unsigned corners! Take a right (north) at the first major T-junction, climbing all the time, and then a left (west), still climbing and then dropping to meet the B4391. Turn right, through Rhos-y-brithdir.
After the village, twisting downhill, turn left to descend a minor road which meets B4396 at Pedair-ffordd. Turn right here to cross the River Tanat, climb over the next ridge and drop steeply into Llanrhaeadr, across the River Rhaeadr, about 9 miles from Llanfechain. Llanrhaeadr is another good village for a break, with seats, toilets, shops and the Handi Café/pub.
The return from Llanrhaeadr is the reverse of Ride Five, with a minor variation. From Llanrhaeadr take the minor road which follows the north bank of the river, signposted for Pistyll Rhaeadr Waterfall. After about 2 miles, turn sharp right to climb away from the river and through a farmyard (unless you wish to visit the highest waterfall in Wales, another 4 miles along the river, and then return – see Ride Five).
Turn left (north) at the T-junction with another minor road and, keeping left, climb past a farm, Ty Issa, before descending to Tyn-y-ffridd. Turn sharply right here and then left (east) for the last long hill-climb before the welcome descent into Llanarmon. Cross the River Ceiriog here and follow the familiar B4500 along the valley to Glen Ceiriog (see Ride One).
RIDE THIRTEEN: A Circular Route via Llanarmon-Dyffryn-Ceiriog to Llansillin, returning via Rhydycroesau and Selattyn
Distance: 29 miles Height Climbed: 2,630 ft Maximum Height: 1,400 ft
Ride along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, continuing through Pandy and Tregeiriog to Llanarmon, taking any of the alternative sections listed under Ride One.
From Llanarmon ride straight on (signposted Llanrhaeadr YM), climbing high above the valley on a narrow lane which is 1 in 6 initially. At the next junction, at the top of the hill, turn left in the direction of Llanrhaeadr YM. Turn left off this road after about 2 miles, climb steeply past a chapel and take a left round a steep hairpin and up towards Llangadwaladr (see the first part of Ride Four).
After less than a mile, turn right along a lane, through two gates and through a farm. This road then turns south, past the small Lake Moelfre. Keep straight on at the foot of the lake and left at the next junction into Llansillin.
We arrived in Llansillin on August Bank Holiday Monday, to find the annual show and gymkhana in full swing, with afternoon teas in the village hall. There is also a hotel and a lovely old church, with its own little café inside.
Leave Llansillin on the minor road running east, alongside the north wall of the churchyard. Follow this for about 2 miles, across a river and then climbing. Turn left at a T-junction, then left again at Croesau Bach. Ride north for 2 miles to Rhydycroesau (where the café in the village hall might be open).
Here turn right onto B4580 towards Oswestry and follow it for a mile, taking the next left at Llawnt, crossing Offa's Dyke footpath after about a mile, and bearing right (north-east) to Selattyn.
In Selattyn, ride due north on a narrow road, downhill to cross Morlas Brook then climbing to Fron. Turn left at Quinta before reaching Weston Rhyn, then left again through Bronygarth. Cross the Ceiriog and rejoin B4500 at Herber Gate, 2 miles east of Pontfadog.
(Alternatively, return directly from Selattyn to Glyn Ceiriog on B4579 via Craignant.)
RIDE FOURTEEN: From the Ceiriog Valley to the Tanat Valley: Llangynog and Pennant Melangell via Llanarmon DC and Llanrhaeadr YM
Distance: 46 miles Height Climbed: 3,635 ft Maximum Height: 1,450 ft
The final ride in this series is perhaps the best for distance, climbing, mountain scenery and the sheer joy of the quiet open road.
Ride along B4500 (Ceiriog Valley road) into Glyn Ceiriog, continuing through Pandy and Tregeiriog to Llanarmon, taking any of the alternative sections listed under Ride One.
At the crossroads in Llanarmon ride straight on (signposted Llanrhaeadr YM), climbing high above the valley on a narrow lane which is 1 in 6 initially. At the next junction turn left and follow the road down the east side of Mynydd Mawr, the most direct route to Llanrhaeadr. Cross the River Rhaeadr in Llanrhaeadr village and climb out of the valley, on the road running south-west for Penybontfawr, which drops into the Tanat Valley.
Just before the bridge over the River Tanat (across which lies the village of Penybontfawr), turn right along a narrow road which follows the north bank of the river to Llangynog. This is the easiest section of the ride and a much quieter road than the parallel B4391 to Bala along the south bank (one of only 2 roads crossing the Berwyn Mountains).
On meeting B4391 at Llangynog, turn left and cross the Tanat into the village (about 20 miles from Pontfadog). There are two old inns for refreshment, if you didn't stop earlier in Llanrhaeadr.
It is just 2 miles further, along the Tanat Valley, to the delightful old pilgrimage church of St Melangell at Pennant. Follow the signpost – it's well worth the short ride and the church is freely open every day.
Return from Llangynog to Llanrhaeadr, where you may welcome another break.
From Llanrhaeadr you can vary the outward route. After crossing the river, continue briefly eastwards (uphill) on the outward route, then take the first left which runs north. You will pass the turnings for Pistyll Rhaeadr Waterfall, as you skirt the west side of Mynydd Mawr. (Slightly longer but less climbing than the road on the east side, followed earlier.)
Turn sharp right for the last long climb over the moor before dropping into Llanarmon, to cross the River Ceiriog and follow its valley home on B4500.
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