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1998 March (Greece, Italy) PDF Printable Version

 

MOTORHOME TRAVELLERS' DIARY FOR MARCH 1998

GREECE AND ITALY

Barry and Margaret Williamson

What follows are extracts from a diary we kept during our travels in mainland Europe by motorhome, bicycle and sometimes motorbike in the years since we early-retired in 1995

01 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which we watch the Lehena Carnival

Carnival Day dawned sunny and dry, unlike last year's wind and rain on Crete. John came by, walking his dog from Aginara, showing us the walking stick he had made from a palm tree in the lane, something he had learned in Israel. What an amazing octogenarian.

We decided against travelling to Patras to watch what is claimed to be the world's second largest carnival parade (after Rio in Brazil) as it would be difficult to park or return before dark, and instead went along to the small town of Lehena, about 15 miles away, arriving soon after 2 pm (the time we had seen on a poster). There were a few people on the streets, balloon and sweet sellers hung about and a loud PA system played Caribbean-type music. We wandered round, sat on the church steps with a flask of coffee, inspected a few rustic floats (pulled by tractors draped in sheets) parked down a back street, and gradually the thing began to come to life. A band gathered, men in Greek costume, more floats, 2 or 3 groups of Lehena's mixed infants and juniors, and various odd characters in fancy dress, like a rural gala procession cum rag day parade.

The whole thing was led by a man in a superb giant frog outfit, with a bemused Kermit-like expression. He could barely see out, through 2 little eye-holes below the neck, and kept setting off before they were ready and being sent back. He couldn't hear anything from inside the costume and at one point a man was kneeling on the pavement and shouting instructions to him up the frog's skirt! Excitement grew among the schoolchildren, who were so eager to go. The best group were dressed in blue and white with white banners to wave, representing the sea, with a model boat towed behind, and they really gave it their all. It may not have been as big as Patras but it was a thoroughly good-natured, chaotic village event. The evening TV showed a selection of carnival celebrations and ours was on the local channel. How proud those kids must have felt.

02 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which we fly a kite for Clean Monday

A public holiday in Greece to mark the beginning of Lent, celebrated by picnics and kite flying (which symbolises airing your soul and cleansing it of sin). We felt like an airing ourselves after letter writing in the morning (to Eugene & Nicole in Portugal and to Coventry Trading Standards), so we took part by walking along the beach to Glifa harbour with Barry's kite flying high (800 ft) and succeeded in grounding 2 lesser models! Several Greek families had come down to their seaside huts/chalets for the weekend and were busy with barbecues and grills (though they are only supposed to eat 'bloodless creatures' such as octopus and squid today). Boys of all ages flew the traditional hexagonal kites, some made from plastic bin liners, stretched over light canes. By the end of the afternoon many were hanging from telegraph lines and trees, or ditched in the sea. A small rowing boat was busy rescuing them! Few would live to fly again, but they are sold cheaply along the roadsides for Carnival weekend. We did see one model aeroplane up, and thought of Thomas selling his planes on Crete.

TUESDAY 03 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which mum's Christmas parcel is finally unwrapped

We cycled to Gastouni for shopping, photocopying and post. On the way out of Lygia we stopped a while to watch an ELPA truck trying to recover a crashed car which had rolled over the bank and down the hillside, finishing on its side wedged against an olive tree. The winch had stopped winding, the truck was blocking the road, the traffic built up and we heard a lot of new Greek words.

We made copious photocopies of our E111 forms (as advised in one of the RV magazine articles about health care in Spain) and copied some Ford Manual pages to enclose with Barry's letter to Coventry Trading Standards. The old woman in the house next to the stationer's came out, not to reprimand us for leaning our bikes on her wall, as we feared, but to present us each with a giant orange 'for the road'. What a nice gesture. We made it to the post office with one minute to spare before closing (1.30 pm) and were delighted to find mum's well-travelled parcel had finally reached us. Then we got to the supermarket just before it closed at 2 pm, and the baker's just before he closed at 2.30 pm! The government will have difficulty with their plan to impose a 35-hour working week here - 'as much as that?!' Nothing stirs in the afternoon. Back home it was Christmas as we opened mum's parcel and found ourselves Rich Beyond the Dreams of Liquorice. We read the letters, listened to Elton John and relished a packet of allsorts.

04 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which Alf takes us above the snow line in the Erimanthos range

A 170-mile day out with Alf in superb spring sunshine into the Erimanthos, the westernmost of the Peloponnesian mountains, which are the snow-capped peaks we often see in the distance as we cycle to Gastouni. We took the inland road for Patras, turning off where a good road climbed to 900 metres (3000 ft) up the west flank of the range to the mountain village of Kalendzi. An excellent place to eat our picnic lunch, the fir forest rising behind us and fine views across the coastal plain to the Gulf of Patras before us. It's the birthplace of George Papandreou, intermittent Prime Minister in the post-war years, and of his more infamous and recently deceased son Andreas. There was a modern bronze statue of George in the Plateia, in front of the house where he grew up (now a cafe-grill) and a small museum. All were locked and deserted, just one lone man who regarded us with suspicion.

From here a climbers' path was signposted 7 hours to Olonos peak, and there was also a roughly bulldozed track with no signs which we took (because it was there!). It climbed and hairpinned its way up the ravines which had been the site of Hercules' 4th labour (capture of the Erimanthean boar). We scrambled up for 1½ hours, seeing no signs of life except for a few shepherdless sheep and wild flowers in profusion, becoming steadily more Alpine: wild crocuses, gentian, grape hyacinth and many more, predominantly blue. We reached the snowline, let Alf cool off as he was steaming, before the last push (sometimes literally) until the trail ended at a small stone shelter (locked) at about 1800 m/6000 ft. We'd passed a few empty goat-pens and shepherds' huts and some springs for water indicating summer pastures, but were eerily alone. It was an hour's slow descent back to Kalendzi, still in dry sunshine though clouds were starting to gather on the tops. We returned by a longer route, through the hills in the early evening light to Olympia. Arriving here as darkness fell we warmed ourselves over extortionately priced coffee before the final 40 familiar miles home.

05 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which we visit all the Aginara residents

After reluctantly finishing our business letter writing (Barry to Sugden's, his tax office and the accountant; Margaret to Turner's and her tax office) we went to Gastouni market and post office and rang mum to thank her for all the mail now safely arrived. We also tried ringing Penta Paper for new ink cartridges for the Canon printer but found they'd moved, thanks to mum's directory enquiries. By then we had no phone cards left and the OTE office had, of course, closed, so we gave up and went home.

After lunch we walked along to Aginara. John and Etta gave us some of their delicious home made ice cream (cherry brandy flavour), coffee, nuts and biscuits, and talked us round Sicily which they know very well and of old. Mick and Flo joined us till the sun went down. We looked in on Stan and Celia as we were ready to leave and were (easily) persuaded to stay and eat with them again, sharing their tuna bake. They are good company and we talked till late, returning home by moonlight, shimmering on the waves like a silver carpet, with the odd carbide lamp of a little fishing boat shining in the distance. We even saw a swimmer out with a torch, perhaps catching octopus.

06 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which we prepare to move on

Into Vartholomio to ring Medlink ferries (no sailing for Brindisi on Monday but 2 boats going Tuesday evening) and Penta Paper (followed up by a letter and cheque as they won't take credit card orders). Barry serviced Alf, after the mountain climbing expedition, Margaret did some baking and diary-writing, and we pitched our lightweight tent outside to air. We had to test its waterproofing by drenching it with the hosepipe, as there has been no sign of rain for a month (it passed).

07 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which we pay our last visit to Aginara Beach

Another morning of letter-writing, replying to some of the many Christmas letters from friends far and wide, enclosing a copy of the Neighbours article for those featured in it. After lunch we made our way along the beach to Aginara and spent the afternoon poring over maps and camping guides with Etta and John, working our way from Sicily through Italy and Slovenia to Hungary. Mick and Flo, who had taken them out to Olympia yesterday, joined us for coffee and cakes but are more interested in shopping than travel, though they had been over to Zakinthos for 5 days before Christmas. We called on Stan and Celia briefly, to invite them over tomorrow, then had supper and spent the evening with Mick and Flo. It does get complicated having 3 sets of friends in one place, we're more used to having none.

08 MARCH 1998 GR IONION BEACH CAMPING

In which we are 'at home' to visitors

After a morning of dhobi, packing and printing the February Diary, we held 'open house' for farewells. Stan and Celia came in time to share our lunch (our own chicken and veg soup, rolls, cheese and apricot flapjack) with plenty of the white wine from Camping Mycenae, which Stan declared to be like a good dry sherry. He fancies himself as something of an expert in these matters, whereas we academics 'don't know nothing'. Certainly, he can outdrink us if that's what counts.

Etta and John joined us all mid-afternoon to say goodbye - we were touched at such a huge effort for Etta to walk so far on the beach. More wine (sehr stark was Etta's verdict) and tea and biscuits, then Hans came over to return the MMM articles we'd lent him and the conversation turned to Austrian dialect as these 3 wonderful characters got talking. Suddenly they all left, just giving us time to wash up and have a quiet pot of tea before Mick and Flo arrived for the evening, which saw off the last of the wine, cheese and peanuts. A very sociable day!

09 MARCH 1998 GR PATRAS SEAFRONT

In which we leave Ionion Beach for Patras

As we prepared to move off we found a newly arrived German motorhome standing by for our pitch - here for Easter for the last 4 years. (We've preceded them for the last 3 years but never met. 'Our' pitch is the best one, right by the beach, the gate and a water tap.) 2 more sets of Germans came and installed themselves on the 2 adjacent pitches, so we'd chosen the right moment to leave, so used are we to having peace and space, as the other winter residents all stand further inland on the site nearer the facilities. It was a strange feeling, a mixture of sadness and excitement, as we checked out and drove down the lane and the very familiar road to Gastouni for the last time. We stopped to photocopy the diary, post letters, buy bread and make coffee and, at last, reluctantly hit the road for the 50 mile drive to Patras.

We had our lunch in the Praktiker car park on the edge of Patras, then shopped there and in the nearby Eurospar, stocking up ready for Italy which is more expensive. We found the BP Autogas station for LPG, thanks to Patrick's directions. (Totally unadvertised, it lay a couple of miles off the main road, turning left after a Texaco station and following the canal, on leaving Patras towards Pirgos.) Finally we filled up with diesel (again, much cheaper than in Italy) and called at the AB supermarket for the 'exotic' items we hadn't found in the Eurospar, such as HP sauce, baked beans and soup. We drove through the throng of traffic and past the docks to the end of the seafront where the large parking area in front of the closed EOT campsite was empty, apart from circling learner-drivers, and ideal for the night.

60 miles. Free night.

10 MARCH 1998 GR PATRAS SEAFRONT

In which we buy tickets but do not sail for Brindisi

Last night's electric storm had abated but the weather was very changed, wet and windy, just as we intend to take the ferry! We drove back to the docks, parked on the quayside and went to the Medlink office. There was a choice of the Ag Andreas at 8 pm or the Afrodite at 9 pm, both of which we've sailed on before. We succeeded in claiming the passenger discount for those aged under 26 and the vehicle discount for members of the AA/RAC and paid a total of £84.00!

We passed the rest of the morning walking round the city and revisited the modern cathedral of St Andrew (Ag Andreas). Some relics of the martyr's X-shaped cross are displayed, behind the silver casket containing his head. The caretaker, a gentle little man who spoke Italian, came over and showed us the glass in the top of the casket through which Andrew's skull could be seen, and then led us outside and across a courtyard to visit the old church of St Andrew, built on the site of a temple to Demeter by an ancient well. Inside was a silver tomb with the rest of the saint's remains and some superb icons. The whole cathedral precinct was peaceful and green, a lovely contrast to the oppressive noise and traffic of Greece's major port. We walked back to the central square for a fast food lunch in Hambo's, then got some Italian money and retreated into Rosie, parked on the dock opposite the ferries, as steady rain set in. As the afternoon wore on and we watched the weather forecasts we decided to postpone our sailing for 2 days until the next sailing on Thursday evening - force 8 gales were promised and we were in no particular hurry! We watched all the lorries boarding (most of Greece's supplies arrive from Italy) and then returned to spend another night on the seafront, lashed by wind and rain, pleased we had waited.

8 miles. Free night.

11 MARCH 1998 GR CAMPING RIO, Nr PATRAS

In which we move to Rio

It was still raining hard with a cold wind, so we moved along the coast to Rio to shelter on one of the two campsites there. Only Camping Rio was open, with no-one else staying on it (not surprising, given the daily rate, but we hope it's just for one night). We settled in a pleasant corner, lemon trees on one side and a vineyard on the other, fed the birds, shooed off the cat, played with the dog and hoped the weather would improve by tomorrow evening. After lunch rain kept us indoors, reading and writing (letter to Alan, birthday card to Peter).

6 miles. £10.89 inc elec.

12 MARCH 1998 GR CAMPING ON BOARD THE F/B AFRODITE

In which we meet Steve, Glen and their Ford E350 RV and all embark for Italy

We awoke to see fresh snow on the peaks behind us but the wind had dropped. We drove back to Patras, checked in for the sailing on 'Afrodite II' at 8 pm, posted our mail and spent and changed our remaining Greek money. Waiting to board the ferry we were amazed to see a 24 foot long 'Ultra' RV also on an American Ford E350 - this was only the third US Ford-based motorhome we had met in our travels. The Ultra is a shorter version of Rosie, and the only other camper joining us on the open deck among the lorries. So we met Steve and Glen, who had sold their post office in Keighley a year ago and taken to the road. We were all astonished at the coincidence, finding they'd travelled as far as Crete and Turkey and were now bound for Sicily! For once the ship was not full, Barry drove up the ramp to the open deck like an old hand and we even parked near enough to the edge for an electric hook-up. We joined Steve and Glen for coffee, inspected each other's vehicles and swapped information on problems and servicing abroad. They had bought from Travelworld in Wolverhampton but their dealer sounded as unhelpful as ours. And so we left Greece, on a calm dark night for our smoothest ever crossing of the Adriatic.

6 miles. Camping on board.

13 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ONDA AZZURRA, CORIGLIANO

In which we arrive in Brindisi and drive to Calabria without any bad luck

In the morning, before docking, Steve and Glen came in for coffee and we exchanged 2 videos and some useful Ford service addresses around Europe. They gave us the address of a Canadian in Vicenza in northern Italy who services US cars and trucks for people on the nearby US base. We told them about the campsite near Corigliano, which had been highly recommended to us by Lois and Ron Richardson from Vancouver, and they said they might arrive tomorrow after visiting Matera. Suddenly we were docking in Brindisi, exactly on time at 10 am Italian (11 am Greek) after a remarkably good voyage.

Driving from the docks past Brindisi and on to Taranto in light rain was a pleasure - smooth roads, dual carriageway, clear signposting, orderly traffic- joys we'd almost forgotten after 15 months in Greece and Turkey. And this, the poor end of Italy, looked so much more prosperous, with none of the feared Mafia, terrorists or highwaymen (Albanian or otherwise) in sight. We broke the journey at Metaponto, turning off to eat lunch by the sea where we'd once free-camped en route to Brindisi. Then we followed the coastline of the Gulf of Taranto to Onda Azzurra (Blue Wave) camping, on the shore between Sibari and Corigliano. We were surprised how busy it was, 100% German-speaking, with little privacy, but the facilities are excellent, heated toilet/shower block, constant hot water, a well-stocked shop, bread to order, etc. Luckily there were 2 large empty pitches together by the beach and we reserved the other in case Steve and Glen came.

In fact, they arrived a couple of hours later, to the double-amazement of our other neighbours who must have thought we'd rung for reinforcements. Barry helped them to mend their damaged awning when we saw them struggling to put it up and we soon began to wonder how they had survived a year's travelling, given the bad advice they had been given and their lack of knowledge, skill, tools and equipment. A combination of blissful ignorance, good luck, and borrowing from neighbours like us turned out to be the answer!

150 miles. £5.17 inc elec.

14 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ONDA AZZURRA, CORIGLIANO

In which we visit Schiavonea and Corigliano and dine with Steve and Glen

After some chores (dhobi, cleaning Rosie, etc) we stopped to talk (or rather listen) to Glen. She suggested a meal together tonight: she would do a starter and had plenty of vegetables but only 2 chicken pieces, so we agreed to get 2 more and provide the pudding. Alf had his first Italian outing, a few miles along the coast to the little fishing port of Schiavonea and then inland to the larger shopping centre of Corigliano in search of chicken portions. The shops and streets were full of people and cars, but what do they all do in this remote agricultural area?

After lunch Barry was busy checking and fixing Steve's engine oil, power steering fluid, water boiler level, brake and reversing lights, filling a crack above the door, and testing and recharging Glen's computer battery! Margaret was equally busy hanging out washing and making lemon meringue pies for the dinner, but Glen was soon round - could she borrow our washing machine and use our line (yes), did we have a sewing machine (no), could we spare a bit of baking foil and some velcro to make a skylight cover like ours (OK), perhaps she could use our printer (sorry, we're very low on ink till we get our next post restante), had we any salad stuff to go with the egg/tuna mayonnaise starter (too late, we'd already been shopping!) We'd never had neighbours like these!

But she prepared us a good meal, with plenty of their ouzo and wine followed by our Hungarian liqueur and Turkish delight with the coffee. Glen is into aromatherapy and Barry had to bathe his eyes in camomile to recover from the soothing effects of her candles! Travel for them seems to mean providing a mobile hotel for a succession of friends and family to join them from the UK: after having their daughter, son-in-law and baby grandson for New Year in Crete, followed by friends in Athens, they now have a break of 3 weeks to see Sicily and southern Italy before meeting more friends in Rome for Easter weekend. Then it's to Nordkapp for midsummer's day with more friends and on to the USA/Australia/New Zealand for the next 12 months. We wondered why they were rushing so much, given their age (early 40's) and felt they needed to slow down, leaving time for vehicle maintenance and exercise.

15 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ONDA AZZURRA, CORIGLIANO

In which we walk by the Ionion Sea and Alf is blown over

We had a lazy morning after our late night, reading and writing (to Stan and Celia, as promised, about this campsite). Very strong winds deterred us from cycling so we had an afternoon walk along the beach and through the pinewoods towards Sibari. On our return, our doormat and bucket had blown to the other side of the site and Alf was over on his side. Glad we weren't at sea today! An interesting item on the World Service - the Greek drachma has been devalued by 15% under EU pressure. If only we'd known that was about to happen, we could have waited a week and saved some money on our ferry ticket and mammoth shopping before leaving. It's good news for Stan, but not for Mick and Flo whose meagre wages will be worth even less this season.

Steve borrowed our step ladder and electric screwdriver for more repairs and Barry persuaded Glen to buy an inverter to run the computer as the rechargeable battery wouldn't work it. In the evening they both came round and we did some more exchanging of information, magazines and books. They had a list of free overnighting places throughout Italy, which we photocopied on the campsite fax machine, and we were able to help them on health insurance. It has been a useful, if exhausting, meeting.

16 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ONDA AZZURRA

In which we visit medieval Corigliano and play Scrabble

On Alf 5 miles into Schiavonea to post Stan's letter - and to post several more for Glen and get her some stamps - and then to the medieval hilltown of Corigliano Calabro, above the modern town, climbing up to and through its twisting narrow cobbled streets. There was a good view of the coastal Plain of Sibari from the castle (not open to visit) and we explored the cathedral. Roman Catholic churches are so different from the Greek Orthodox it's hard to believe that they are religions from the same root. Dark and gloomy, with the emphasis on the suffering of the Crucifixion; the Virgin Mary and other statues dressed in clothes and jewellery; the stations of the cross; the confessionals; and the candles were electric, with no wonderful scents of beeswax and incense. We shall remain Orthodox, it's so much more atmospheric.

After lunch we'd settled down to do some reading and writing when Steve asked us over for coffee and another look at their computer problem (they agreed that the best solution was to buy an inverter). They suggested drinks, snacks and a game of Scrabble. Innocently we accepted, only to find they are fanatics who play every evening and know every trick in the Scrabble Champ's book, such as words using Q without U, and a long list of 2-letter words we had never heard of. We were gallant losers, but managed to compete at dominoes (5's and 3's where at least we knew the rules). We were a little relieved to learn they are leaving tomorrow for Sicily, and that we are now likely to stay well behind their pace.

17 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ONDA AZZURRA

In which we visit the site and museum of Ancient Sybaris

After seeing Steve and Glen on their way, via the liquids dump (grey and black) and refill (almost clear), we relaxed as we watched a German Iveco take their pitch. Margaret packed up a Mother's Day gift for next Sunday (a book called 'Greek Salad' with a whirlwind coach tour of the classic sites, interspersed with legends and a few recipes).

After lunch we rode back east a few miles to see the excavations of Ancient Sybaris at Sibari. Founded by Greeks in the 8thC BC on a very fertile plain, the city was exceptionally prosperous, the luxury of its buildings and lifestyle being the origin of the word Sybaritic. The actual site was only identified in the late 1960's by aerial and X-ray photography, lying below Roman Thurium. The rivers flowing off the mountains and across the Plain of Sibari which made the soil rich had buried all trace of these ancient civilisations under layers of silt. The excavations showed mostly Roman remains (mosaic floors, paved roads, a small theatre), well below the level of the fields around, kept from flooding by a system of pumps. The remains were well kept and labelled and we were shown round, free of charge, by the keeper. He encouraged us to see the brand new museum 2 or 3 km away, where there was an entry fee but only for Margaret, as European 60's and over go free (gratuito) in all Italy's sites and museums on production of documenti. The modern museum was beautifully laid out with finds from other smaller sites on Calabria's coastal plain and the Greek artifacts were immediately recognisable, from Mycenean through to Classical. A wonderful experience.

18 MARCH 1998 I MOTORWAY SERVICES, MESSINA, SICILY

In which we cross the Strait of Messina to Sicily

An easy drive via Sibari to the A3 motorway (the Austostrada del Sol), which leads to the toe of Italy at Reggio di Calabria. Running through many short tunnels and over gorge-spanning viaducts in the hills it was quite a feat of engineering, and is free of tolls south of Salerno. It wasn't busy and was well supplied with service stations and smaller parking areas, emergency phones and clear signposts. We still miss many things about Greece, but the roads are not among them! After Scylla, home of Odysseus's monster, we turned off at Villa San Giovani for the 30-minute ferry crossing past the whirlpool of Charybdis to Messina. Large RO-RO boats (Rosie's relief at not having to back on or off or tackle steep ramps was palpable), with railway lines to carry trains across, run regularly and we sailed at 6.15 pm for a one-way fare of £12. The tides and winds through the narrow strait are infamous ('lost between Scylla and Charybdis') but today the gods were on our side and our passage was smooth, homing in on the lights of Messina as darkness fell. Here the traffic was chaotic but the signs led us through crowded streets to the motorway and we were soon at the first services, with a large lorry-filled parking area very suitable for a night's rest.

159 miles. Free night.

19 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ALMOETIA, TAORMINA

In which we see Mount Etna and explore Taormina

A short drive south along the motorway, high above the coast through an impressive series of tunnels to the exit south of Taormina and the town of Giardini-Naxos. We found 2 campsites open by the sea and turned into the one recommended by Ron and Lois of Vancouver, which was busy with Germans and overpriced but in a pleasant lemon grove with a view of snow-capped Etna, which dominates the whole region. After briefly meeting the only other English couple, Ian and Irene from Chelmsford, we rode Alf into Giardini to post mum's parcel and shop at the excellent supermarket on the main road (our first contact with the nationwide SMA chain).

After lunch we rode Alf to Taormina, Sicily's premier resort, on a wonderful site 820 ft above the Ionion Sea facing Etna, with beautiful gardens, Greek and Roman remains and medieval cobbled streets lined with shops and cafes for the seriously rich. The Greek Theatre was the attraction for us, originally 3rdC BC but rebuilt by the Romans and still used for summer performances. Not least, there was a superb view of snow-capped Etna between the columns of the back-stage Scena. A smaller Roman Odeon had been partly built over by a medieval church. The town must have been a splendidly romantic village in the days when Goethe and later D H Lawrence came but has almost succumbed to modern tourism. Our books warned against the summer crowds and prices but today was quiet and we managed to leave without buying anything except one entry ticket to the Greek theatre. Alf saved us the 30-minute climb to the Castello, high above Taormina, where we enjoyed our own coffee and a wonderful view of the twin bays below.

32 miles. £9.65 inc elec (showers extra - we used our own!)

20 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ALMOETIA, TAORMINA

In which Alf climbs to the Etna cable car and runs into a blizzard

A bright sunny morning with a clear view of Etna, with its cap of fluffy white cloud above its snowy shoulders. Europe's largest volcano and one of the most active on earth, it's 10,902 ft/3323 m high, covers a huge area, over 600 sq miles, and is snow-capped for 7 months of the year. Statistics aside, we were well impressed - it is vast and beautiful, the site of Vulcan's forge for the ancient Greeks.

In 1971 an eruption had destroyed the upper cable car station and the observatory built to give warning of just such an eruption; in 1983 the Sapienza Refuge and the restored cable car went, and in 1986 the new cable car was lost! Undaunted, another Funivia is now in operation, with 6-person cabins running from the Sapienza Refuge at about 6,500 ft on the south face for a 15-minute ride up to about 8,600 ft, from where special vehicles take the intrepid as near to the crater as is considered safe, for a total return fare of about £20.

Alf took us up 1923 m/6500 ft in 30 miles, along the main road to Giarre then, following the signs for Etna South and the cable car, we climbed a remarkably good road through the 3 zones: the lower slopes which are planted with citrus groves and terraced vines, then the woods of chestnut, oak, beech, birch and pine, giving way to the barren zone above 6,000 ft, with a black landscape of volcanic rock and clinker, the temperature falling dramatically as we rose. By the time we reached the top of the road, with its coach park, 2 cafes and souvenir stalls round the lower cable car station the mist descended, the wind rose and a blizzard blew. Barely able to see, we retreated into the quietest cafe for coffee. As soon as we were settled with cappuccino, a coach party of small and boisterous children poured in, scarcely contained by their poor teachers. Preferring the scene outside, we walked to peer into a nearby crater but had to turn back. The cable car terminus had TV screens showing the weather at the upper station, and we could see there was no point in going up, it was a white-out. We talked about Poland to an English/Polish family, who were flying home to England tomorrow, then rode carefully back through the extraordinary landscape, the snow turning to rain as we descended. Back at base we recovered over hot soup and went to tell Ian and Irene how to get up Etna. He is a retired FE college Engineering HOD from Chelmsford and she was a school bursar. We succeeded in not discussing education; they didn't.

21 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ALMOETIA, TAORMINA

In which we cross the island to Milazzo

A fine morning and off early on Alf for Milazzo, the ferry port serving the Eolie Islands off Sicily's north coast. The easy route would have been to take the coastal road via Messina but the scenic route cutting inland through the Peloritani Mountains looked shorter (in distance, if not in time). It was a beautiful ride, first through small towns thronged with markets and shoppers, then climbing high on empty forested roads, twisting their way to the top of the Mandrazzi Pass at 3,700 ft. There was a wonderful view of Etna behind us, then the Gulf of Milazzo in front as we descended through the little medieval hill-towns of Novara di Sicilia and Castroreale, all cobbled streets, ancient churches and crumbling castles, reaching Milazzo after 65 slow miles in 3 hours.

We wanted timetables for the ferry services to the volcanic islands of Stromboli, Vulcano, et al, and information about accommodation in order to plan a visit. The Siremar Line office was closed but times and prices were displayed and the Tourist Info office was open. After a good lunch in a self-service restaurant 'La Dolce Vita' (indeed), we rode out to the Cape of Milazzo, where all 3 campsites were closed until May/June, drank our flask of coffee and returned on the mountainous country roads. At one point we met an unofficial sports car race hurtling round the bends, cheered on by a crowd of swarthy men looking like they worked for Don Corleone. Etna was now hidden in mist again, the mornings are always clearer. After the village of Francavilla di Sicilia we paused at the Alcantara Gorge, where you can walk or take a lift down and paddle in the river (waders for hire). We looked at the view, gave the wading a miss and got home before dark.

22 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ALMOETIA, TAORMINA

In which we shelter from the winds as spring comes in like a lion

Alf needed a rest day and so did we. We did some cleaning and dhobi and decided to postpone and shorten the trip to the Aeolian Islands, if we do make it, considering the very high price of rooms there and the worsening weather. The ancients thought Aeolus, the god of the winds, lived in the islands but we think he's moved to Almoetia!

Margaret rang mum on Mother's Day and arranged for the next post to go to Palermo. We talked to a lone German with a nice sense of humour (we English with the Four Winds are responsible for the weather, etc) and exchanged more useful information - our experience of Turkey for his of Morocco. The hi-top of his VW van was decorated with primitive murals of camels in the desert, painted and signed by a Moroccan in Agadir who tried to sell him a painting! Later we called on Irene and Ian, who move on tomorrow, and shared their bottle of Marsala and a few stories. Marsala, the best known wine of the island, was like a strong sweet sherry. We also gained a pile of magazines and gave them our 'War Walks' book in return.

23 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ALMOETIA, TAORMINA

In which Alf scales the north face of Etna

The wind had dropped, the sun shone and it was time to tackle the north face. The road climbs up from Piedimonte ('Foot of the Mountain') via the village of Linguaglossa ('Smooth Talk'?) with its railway station on the Circumetnea line, through the winter sports centre at Mareneve, ending at the Pouchoz Refuge, ski school and cafes at a height of 1800 m/5900 ft. It was much colder than the south face, with fresh snow lying in the pine forests before reaching the desolate lava fields, but clear enough for some good photographs before light snow began to fall, the cloud descended and so did we.

After lunch we updated the diary and rang Endsleigh Insurance to renew the annual health cover - year 3 is almost complete! The campsite is moderately busy and international, though with German, Austrian, Swiss and Finnish vans the Lingua Franca is again German. We've learnt that Sicily is the largest island in the Med, with a population of 6 million (over half the total population of Greece and all its islands) which explains the crowded towns. We do feel a pressure of people here, having been spoilt by the quietness of Greece and Turkey, outside their chaotic main cities.

In the evening we watched one of the videos we'd swapped with Glen and Steve, a futuristic science fiction film 'Dune' of which we could make little sense (but that is a good thing because it means that we will have to watch it several times). We are however managing enough Italian to make sense of the news and weather on local channels - Boris Yeltsin has sacked his entire cabinet, Bill Clinton has escaped his domestic scandals by visiting Africa, and more rain and snow are forecast.

24 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ALMOETIA, TAORMINA

In which we shelter from the rain

Steady cold rain all day, with no view of Etna to be seen. We used the time for letter writing (Ron & Lois in Canada, Etta & John in Austria, Rick & Becky in Florida, Jeff and family in Sheffield) and some timely spring cleaning.

25 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING ALMOETIA, TAORMINA

In which it rains some more

Still cold, wet and windy. The TV news last night showed lorries overturned on Italian motorways and the Messina ferry not running; today's has floods in Greece as the front moves eastwards. The rain abated long enough to venture out to the supermarket and post and to pick some lemons, then set in again for the day so we abandoned our plan to visit the nearby 8thC BC ruins at Naxos, site of the earliest Greek colony in Sicily.

26 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING A GR ITURIST, SIRACUSA

In which we move south to Siracusa and meet the Valentzas

Dry at last for the drive to Siracusa. The motorway took us past Catania, with good last views of Etna. Then the main coast road led to Siracusa and a confusing array of signs variously directing and forbidding heavy vehicles. We were pleased to find the campsite about 3 miles south of the city, down a country lane in an olive grove - a simple site: no drinking water, cold showers, no-one to be found.

After lunch we rode Alf into Siracusa to orientate ourselves. The crowded medieval town of Ortygia is on a small island, linked to the modern city by a bridge, and inland in the archaeological park lie the remains of Ancient Syracuse, one of the most important cities of Magna Graecia, rivalling Athens. Returning to our campsite field we found the owner in Reception, asking 28000 lire, which she finally reduced to 24000 if we stayed more than one night. Best of all, we found intelligent life! A small German Hymer, GB registered, with a crew of 3 friendly Americans: Dick and Audrey Valentzas from Florida and Audrey's friend Sally Seymour from San Francisco. They are all in their mid-60's and we will come to know them well.

76 miles. £8.27 inc elec.

27 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING AGRITURIST, SIRACUSA

In which we visit Siracusa's cathedral and museum and the town of Noto

First into the medieval centre of Ortygia for Tourist Information and to enquire about ferries to Malta, mentioned in our guidebook. (In fact they only run in the summer, but sail all year from Pozzallo, 40 miles down the coast: a 4-hour crossing which would cost about £70 each return just with bicycles - too much for a quick visit, we thought a flight from the UK would not cost much more!)

Our next goal, after several loops of the circuitous one-way system through the narrow streets crammed with Baroque palaces, was the Duomo (Ortygia Cathedral), the earliest church in western Christendom, which has been a sacred site since the 7thC BC. The Doric temple of Athena became a Byzantine basilica, then a Norman church, with late Renaissance and finally Baroque additions. Some of the ancient Greek columns are built into the north side wall, the interior has some Norman elements reminiscent of Durham Cathedral, but the monumental façade, added after the earthquake of 1693, is pure Baroque. Inside are relics of Santa Lucia, virgin and martyr, the patron saint of Siracusa, whose burial is portrayed in one of Caravaggio's last paintings, to be seen in the art gallery here.

Fortified by a flask of coffee, we crossed the modern city to the splendid Archaeological Museum. Well laid out in a specially designed building, it covered Neolithic, Bronze Age and Greek settlement of Syracuse. There were interesting reconstructions of the Greek temples, plenty of ceramics and sculpted figures, the prize exhibit being the marble Venus Anadyomene (Venus rising out of the waves), a beautiful Roman copy of a Greek statue, very impressive despite being headless.

We didn't go on to the Museum of Papyrus, but did learn that the papyrus beds along the Ciane River here are unique in Europe and have been used for paper since ancient times.

After lunch back at Agriturist we took Alf 20 miles south along the coast to see the baroque town of Noto. He wasn't keen and Rosie would have been less so! Noto is famous for having been rebuilt in a unique unity and harmony of rose-coloured stone after the 1693 earthquake (says the guidebook), but it was crowded with a chaotic one-way traffic system and the cathedral was shrouded in scaffolding and the wind was cold and somehow its charm was lost on us (our loss, no doubt). We checked out how to by-pass the town centre, as we must drive Rosie this way - the answer is to ignore the signs and go under a low railway bridge (no prior warning but it has on it a limit of 2.8 m and Rosie is 3.3 m; but she might slip under the middle of the arch) and pray!

Back at the campsite our new American friends invited us in for 'cocktails' - their ritual of drinks before dinner, when you drink and nibble and talk until it's too late and you're too full and drowsy to bother with dinner! We enjoyed it, and their company. Dick and Audrey have been retired for 10 years and sold up their home and car 8 years ago. They now live in 2 motorhomes - a giant 36-footer in the States (presently in store in Florida) and the humbler Hymer, bought 2nd-hand in Germany for use in Europe, and stored on a friend's farm in Northumberland when not being driven. They'd recently flown over from Florida, collected it and driven to Sicily to start a 12-month European tour. They are joined at regular intervals by their 4 adult children, or various friends such as Sally, whom they'd collected at Rome airport. She is a lifelong friend of Audrey, mother of 3 and grandmother of 8, who recently retired from running a restaurant with her oldest daughter. Three wonderfully entertaining people who are teaching us a lot about the American way of retirement and motorhoming. We can't wait to get there, with wide open spaces!

28 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING AGRITURIST, SIRACUSA

In which we visit the church and catacombs of St John the Evangelist

Behind the museum, near the very modern Sanctuary of the Madonnina del Lacrime (site of a miraculous statue), are the remains of the Byzantine church of San Giovanni. It's been ravaged by invaders and earthquakes and is overgrown, but the 1st century crypt, visited by St Paul on his way to Rome (as ever), still has traces of frescoes. The catacombs are a vast early Christian necropolis, the most extensive known outside Rome. The lit route only allowed a glimpse of the network of galleries with thousands of tombs and circular chapels for the sepulcres of martyrs, where Christians took refuge in times of persecution. It was a relief to emerge into the daylight, though unlike Rome the skeletons had been removed. After lunch we needed a supermarket and bank, using our credit cards to stock up before they expire on 31 March. We hope to find new ones waiting in Palermo.

Later Dick, Audrey and Sally joined us for wine and cheese, book and magazine exchanging and good conversation.

29 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING AGRITURIST, SIRACUSA

In which we explore the Parco Archeologico as summertime starts

The wind has dropped at last and the sun shone warmly as we rambled round the archaeological zone - what remains of the ancient Greek colony not subsequently built over by medieval and modern Siracusa. The 5C BC Greek theatre, hewn from the rock, scene of the first performances of Aeschylus, is one of the largest to survive and the elliptical Roman amphitheatre is also on a grand scale. The ancient quarries, overgrown with pines and oleander amid orange groves, contain the huge Grotto of Dionysius, where the exceptional echo allowed the tyrant to overhear the prisoners working in the quarry below.

Back at the campsite we did the dhobi, baked a quiche and lemon meringues and said goodbye to the Americans, leaving tomorrow, though soon to meet again.

30 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING AGRITURIST, SIRACUSA

In which we see prehistoric tombs at Pantalica and a Greek theatre at Palazzolo

A day inland on Alf, first to the Necropolis of Panatalica, the largest in the Mediterranean, set deep in the country where over 5000 prehistoric tombs have been cut out of the rocky ridges down the sides of a gorge. There was road access to either side, then a steep footpath down to the stream, crossed by stepping stones. It was a good walk often on ancient steps, wondering how bronze age man had gained access to these vertical walls.

On to the sleepy little town of Palazzolo Acreide, where the only snack bar was closed for lunch! We had to wait till 3 pm for a slice of pizza and a Capuccino, so we rode up to the top of the town to see the Greek remains first. The small 3rdC BC theatre was elegant and backed on to the semi-circular Bouleuterion (council chamber). There was also a Greek quarry, later used as early Christian catacombs and then as Byzantine rock dwellings, and a Roman road paved with lava. Entry to the site (and all other sites, museums and galleries in Italy) is free for everyone during National Culture Week, starting today, which was good news for Margaret - Barry doesn't pay anyway, being a 'Senior'. On return, the campsite seemed quiet without Dick & Co, but we had the pleasant company of a Scottish couple, now living in Manchester - a retired dentist and a short-term contract social worker, taking a 4-month holiday (the first part had been skiing in the Alps).

31 MARCH 1998 I CAMPING BAIA DE SOLE, MARINA RAGUSA

In which we move to Marina di Ragusa and meet - the Valentzas family

The main road led past Noto (holding our breath under the low bridge) and Ispica, then we turned off to the coast at Pozzallo, the port for Malta. This was the scene of the US landings in 1943 and the signing of the Armistice with the Italians (but not the Germans) soon after. From there we took the narrower coast road through a fairly busy agricultural area to the resort of Marina di Ragusa, where the small campsite turned out to be part of a larger hotel/restaurant/bar complex by the beach. We'd just settled in and had lunch when Dick and Audrey's Hymer appeared and parked alongside. There were no huts or bungalows on this site for Sally so, undaunted, she pitched her tiny tent! Margaret, Audrey and Sally walked along the beach into the small town and spotted a hoopoe on the shore. Barry and Dick did 'the kind of things men do under their bonnets'. By now, we too look forward to cocktail time!

56 miles. £8.62 inc elec.