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Cycling in the Central Greek Peloponnese PDF Printable Version

 

A 9-DAY 357-MILE CYCLE TOUR OF THE

CENTRAL GREEK PELOPONNESE

APRIL-MAY 2003

Margaret and Barry Williamson

Leaving our motorhome at Camping Thines near Finikounda, in the south-west corner of the Greek Peloponnese, we made a circular 9-day bicycle tour of the central Peloponnese.

The total ride was 357 miles (571 km) in 9 days, giving a daily average of almost 40 miles (63 km). Altogether, we climbed over 20,000 ft.

Day 1 FINIKOUNDA – Hotel at AVIA, Nr KALAMATA

We cycle 49 miles and climb 1,000 ft, up the Messinian Gulf and through Kalamata

The weather set warm and dry (getting ever warmer and drier) and by 10 am our motorhome was chained down and we were over the hills and away. The climb out of Finikounda gave great views back over the bay, then we needed the map and compass to find a way through tiny quiet hill villages, like Iamia and Harokopio. We met the coast of the Messinian Gulf after zig-zagging down to Vounaria, where we made welcome mugs of coffee by the shore before riding north along the gulf, glad the recent north wind had dropped. At Petalidi the road leaves the coast and joins the main road from Pylos to Kalamata, heading through orange groves, with stalls at the roadside.

We ate our lunch near Velika, sitting on the steps of a deserted nightclub, the only shade we could find as the afternoon sun beat down. At Messini we shopped at Lidl for a few essentials, then on past Kalamata airport and into the city. The road got busier, with the usual hazards of lorries, railway lines and gravel patches, and Margaret managed to skid and fall where the level crossing wasn't (level, that is). So we got an early meal at Goody's in the city centre, where she was able to wash a grazed knee and regain composure while Barry was befriended by some big blackfellas (Nigerian students actually), trying to sell CD's around the square.

Then along the seafront and south down the other side of the bay for a few more miles to the village of Avia, where we remembered getting a room above the nameless Taverna on a previous ride in Feb 1997. It was still in business, a pleasant room with balcony and sea-view for only €20 (though Barry did have to fix the plumbing - not something Greeks bother with much!)

Day 2 AVIA - Mani Hotel, AREOPOLI

We cycle 47 miles and climb 4,000 ft through the outer Mani to Areopoli

Breakfast in our room and on the road before 9 am. A short easy bit down the coast, then a very stiff climb inland from Kitries, with Margaret walking 2 sections. Rewarded by spectacular views back over the gulf, by a tiny church dedicated to Ag Nikolaos and open to view the ancient frescoes, and by a brew-up in a bus shelter at Doli after only 8 miles (evidence of how steep and hot the ride). Rejoined the main road from Kalamata, before the village of Malta, then more climbing to Prosilio before the lovely zig-zag down to Kardamili, where the Exo (or Outer) Mani begins. Bought bread (and were reminded by the baker that tomorrow is May Day), made lunch in the little park by the church and thought of Patrick Leigh Fermour, who lives and writes here (the original ex-Pat?)

Then a long drag of a climb, high above the coast again with views back to Kardamili and the resort of Stoupa. Through tiny villages with very old churches - Pigi, Platsa and Thalames, at last, with its little Mani Museum and, more importantly, a Kafenion with tables under a huge spreading plane tree, large frothy coffees and long glasses of spring water. A man sharing the shade lay fast asleep by his stall selling local honey and herbs - not many tourists yet. Refreshed, we rode on to Langada and another beautiful Byzantine church to photograph. Over the border (Messinia to Lakonia) and into Itilo, then another exhilarating sweep down, past the huge Turkish castle of Kelefa, to sea level at Nea Itilo. Along the beach, where we've had many a quiet winter's night in the motorhome, then the final climb of the day up to Areopoli, Gateway to the Mesa (or Inner) Mani. The little town is named after Ares, god of war, for its part in the War of Independence from the Turks.

What a wonderful road today, between the Messinian Gulf and the Taigetos Mountains, a virtual corniche. Rewarded ourselves with a good room at the Mani Hotel (air-con, TV and a bathroom that works) and a pizza in the square, watched by the statue of Mavromikhalis (Black Michael) who declared the uprising here.

Day 3 AREOPOLI – Room at GYTHION

We cycle 59 miles and climb 2,500 ft, round the Mani Peninsula

May Day, a public holiday in Greece when everyone goes out for a picnic (or lunch if more affluent), gathers wildflowers, now at their very best, and makes a garland to put on their front door (or car bonnet - a less ancient custom).

As we set out down the cobbled lane in Areopoli we heard the sound of chanting from the Taxiarch's Church. A peep in the door showed 3 priests, their vestments in ascending order of splendour, singing to themselves while a few of the 600 inhabitants came and went. Barry recorded the music while photographing the outside of the 18th century church, unusual for the sculpted signs of the zodiac round its apse, with naive angels and a sun. In 1997 we slept in the Pirgos Tsimova tower-house next to the church belfry and were awoken early by the bells, something we avoided this visit!

An easy ride south, initially downhill after yesterday evening's climb, down the west coast of the Mani peninsula to the little port of Gerolimenas. More traffic than previously, much of it headed for lunch at one of the fish tavernas there. One or two new petrol stations had opened after Areopoli, and Maniot-style towers were being refurbished or newly built - the Mani is being discovered! Made coffee by the harbour before the climb - and more climbing - began, north from Alika. At Tsikkalia, after a stiff hot ascent, we paused for a drink of water. A couple of visitors from Athens came over to offer festive cookies and told us their favourite country was Scotland. Further uphill to the next village, Lagia, where we made lunch in the shade of the churchyard.

Then down a bit and up a lot to Flomochori, where our motorbike once ran out of petrol. Today we were hot and running out of energy but it was downhill to the sea at last, for a rest and a drink at the Taverna by Kotronas harbour at 4.30 pm. Refreshed, we decided not to take an overpriced room and rode on another 19 miles to Gythion. The splendid new coast road still ends at Skoutari, then a track struggles up steeply through the village, eventually joining the main road which comes over a pass from Areopoli. This took us north-east, past the Frankish Passavant Castle (the restored crenellations just visible high above the road) and over one last hill, dropping to Gythion's long waterfront, with plenty of rooms and Tavernas.

We stopped at the first room we came to, negotiated with the inevitable black granny to put the bikes in her living room rather than out on the street, and were ushered to the neighbouring 'restaurant', obviously owned by one of her family. Too tired to explore and compare in the town, we ate the simple chicken and chips at a table set up across the road, on the edge of the harbour. This was followed by lovely sticky pastries from the bakery. We slept well, after the longest day of the tour.

Our balcony overlooked the harbour and across to Marathonissi, the little island linked by a causeway, from where Paris eloped with Helen (of Troy) when Gythion was the port for ancient Sparta.

Day 4 GYTHION - Hotel Amalia, GLIKOVRISSI

We cycle 22 miles and have a half-day off in Glikovrissi

Croissants from the bakery for breakfast (to the disappointment of last night's neighbouring restaurant, where they offered the usual Greek breakfast of orange juice, coffee, bread & jam, yogurt & honey, at too high a price). Shopped in Gythion for bread, postcards and fruit at the market, and checked out the accommodation in Glikovrissi and beyond at the unhelpful and well-hidden Tourist Office. Just one hotel in the town of Glikovrissi and nothing beyond until Poulithra, which means a short day today and a longer hard one tomorrow. Noticed that the seasonal ferry is now running from Gythion to Crete, thrice weekly.

Rode along the coast, past the shipwreck and the free-camp beach where we'd met the Canadian minstrels many years ago, then inland to Skala, with its bridge over the Evrotas, down-river from Sparta. Through orange groves and agricultural villages, Elos and Asteri, where we talked to a gang of fruit-pickers from Pakistan. And so to the small working town of Glikovrissi (= sweet springs) with its one large, empty, expensive hotel. There was indeed nothing else. We cycled the couple of miles down to the coast to check but we found no alternative - even the Dutch-run campsite we'd stayed on in our motorhome had now closed down.

At least the room had a good air-con and a poor TV and we spent the rest of the day resting there. Fetched take-away pork souvlaki and chips for supper and were kept awake by the noise in the streets till midnight.

Day 5 GLIKOVRISSI - Room at POULITHRA

We cycle 42 miles and climb 3,000 ft: very hard going

This was one of the longest and toughest days we've ever ridden, through empty wilderness for the final 30 miles, over 10 miles of it on a steep, poorly maintained track of stones and gravel, with the temperature in the 90's F.

We rode north initially, crossing the main Gythion-Monemvassia road, to the villages of Apidia, Niata (a break at its Kafenion) and Ag Dimitrios, then turned steeply uphill into the barren, treeless hills to climb, devoid of shade. We ate our lunch in a stony quarry, its wall providing the only shade we could find, then pressed on, turning onto a dirt road just before the hamlet of Kremasti. This rough track kept climbing and deteriorating (Margaret walked a lot, Barry rode back and forth, checking ahead), crossing the unmarked border from Lakonia into Arkadia (but no nymphs or shepherds to be seen). Late in the day, just about running out of water and daylight and energy, we finally hit the tarmac at Peleta and zigzagged down and down to Poulithra, a long narrow village dropping to the sea, a very welcome sight at 8 pm and dusk. The only hotel (the enormous Kentauros) claimed to be full (a coach was parked nearby and they didn't want their tone lowered!) but a kind Greek visitor at the nearby Kafenion directed us along the waterfront to a very good cafe with 5 excellent rooms above.

As we ordered a lovely meal at the Taverna along the beach, to the sound of the waves, darkness fell. Chicken souvlakis, salad, bread, a double portion of chips and all the water we could drink. Cakes from the cafe. Peace! How dramatically and suddenly the situation changes.

Day 6 POULITHRA - Hotel Maleatis Apollon, KOSMAS

We cycle 24 miles, climb over 4,000 ft from sea level and visit the Elonis Monastery

Breakfast in the cafe below the rooms (orange juice, coffee, toasted sandwiches), talking to the owner who had worked many years in the US. He couldn't believe the route we'd taken, nor the one we proposed! The weather remains very hot and sunny, with no wind. Another hard day, but at least on sealed roads - up the coast through the old harbour of Plaka to Leonidio, at the mouth of the Dafnon gorge. Here we bought coffees, water and bread, ready for the long ascent to Kosmas.

We brewed up by the bridge well up the gorge, in minimal shade, looking up at the Elonis Moni clinging to the rock-face high above. Eventually reached the Monastery itself and had a picnic lunch on the steps by its little car park. Margaret visited the Moni, founded in the 12th century and now run by 4 nuns, and saw the cave-chapel with the mysterious icon of Maria which was discovered there (?).

On we rode, up and up, until the Monastery could be seen far below. A well-graded road, no need to walk, all manageable on the lowest gear. Up through the pine forest, nice to have some shade, then the mountain village of Kosmas at the top of the pass, by 4 pm. Its impossibly narrow steep entry/exit street once forced our motorhome to turn back on snow and return to Leonidio, but we had no problem cycling through to the big square with its church and water springs.

The only hotel open offered us a lovely room, with a small cooker and a resident geko (small friendly lizards). We had nothing to cook though and the tiny shop didn't even have eggs (perhaps on Tuesday or Thursday, the man said - depends on his hens!), so it was chicken, chips and salad at the only restaurant, sitting in the square.

We talked to a woman who remembered the Germans burning the village (founded in 1592 as a summer-pasture) when she was a child - one of 11 siblings left without food, shoes or clothes, separated from their parents and eventually sent to England. She ended up in Canada before returning in old age. She spoke bitterly of the Germans, Italians and English occupying the place, but the Germans were 'the hardest'. And we thought we'd had a hard 2 days ourselves!

Day 7 KOSMAS – Hotel Cecil, SPARTA

We cycle 37 miles, climbing only 500 ft

An easier day, but Barry noted that Margaret's front tyre was bulging in one place - exactly what had happened to his front tyre (the same type, Schwalbe Marathon) in a remote part of New Zealand. We photographed the height markers in Kosmas - 1150 m (4,364 ft) - then climbed another 100 m or so, past a memorial to the events of 27 July 1943 listing 28 Italian and 83 Greek dead.

A 10-mile steep descent in a valley, crossing back into Lakonia, and a short side-trip into Geraki for coffee in the splendid shady square. A light cool wind began to blow from the north and the snowy peaks of the Taigetos hovered in a bright blue sky, visible all the way to Sparta, nestled below them. The road swung up and down crossing the lie of the land. We made lunch in a rare shaded seat in a lay-by just before Goritsa, then a final 12 miles or so to the main Tripoli road, the bridge over the Evrotas and a busy couple of miles into Sparta.

The good cycle shop opposite the Post Office supplied a new Chinese (700 x 28) tyre for £2, an excellent mirror for B (broken in the quarry on the ride to Poulithra) and a bike lock (we'd left one behind, probably in Areopoli). The Cecil Hotel supplied a nice quiet room with TV and air-con. The Business Pizzeria supplied its usual generous Business Pizza and Business Salad. Civilisation!

Day 8 SPARTA - Hotel Byzantio, KALAMATA

We cycle over the Langhada Pass, 38 miles and 4,300 ft of climbing

An exciting day's ride crossing the formidable barrier of the Taigetos, which gave ancient Sparta such a well-defended position. Barry fitted Margaret's new front tyre in the little yard of the Cecil Hotel, while she bought bread, water and cheese pasties to see us over the 2 passes. As we set off, temperatures were again soaring into the 90's. The TV news had talked of August weather in May and even warned the Greeks about sunbathing and skin cancer.

In Tripi, the last village before entering the gorge, we made coffee by the water springs, then climbed the zigzags, rode through the 2 short tunnels and climbed some more. After 12 miles we stopped at the tiny wayside church for a drink, finding it newly painted with a single candle lit. A goat-herd and his dog walked up from the river below to light another candle and let us take his photo, though he declined our water, pointing down to the stream! We'd once been turned back at this point by a snow blizzard, cycling on a day-ride from Sparta.

After another 4 miles (the steepest section), we reached the top of the first pass, the Langhada. A new tourist cafe/shop had appeared but we ate our lunch at the deserted stall where cherries are sold in the summer. Then a glorious 15-mile freewheel down (stopping after 5 miles for a coffe in the only village, Artemisia), another brief climb, down again, a last 5-mile climb and an 8-mile descent, dropping a final 1,300 ft into the chaos of Kalamata, which spreads about 3 miles back into the hills from its seafront and port.

We checked the 2 little hotels by the railway station. The George was better (for the same price) but had nowhere for the cycles, so we had to take the Byzantio, where they resided in the basement laundry. We ate at Goody's, where the Nigerian Eboes were still trying to sell pirate CD's. Barry bought 4 (Bob Marley, Elvis, Queen and 'Romantic Duets'). A stroll round the city, destroyed and rebuilt since the 1986 earthquake, showed many houses in the old quarter still left cracked and crumbling.

A noisy night until about 1am, with motorbikes roaring aimlessly round the streets and, with no air-con, it was too hot to close the windows. We could have tried a more expensive waterfront hotel, but maybe that's on their circuit too. How and why do the residents stand it?

Day 9 KALAMATA - Camping Thines, FINIKOUNDA

We cycle 39 miles and climb 1,000 ft to find our motorhome waiting at Finikounda

Now retracing our outward route: a busy 6 miles (beware railway lines) past the airport to Messini, where we again shopped at Lidl. We bought coffees and donuts in the surprisingly splendid square in the centre of Messini, then made lunch in the park at Petalidi when we reached the coast. Along the Messinian Gulf road to Vounaria, we were overtaken by Gordon & Wendy, returning from a shopping excursion in Kalamata on their scooter. Only 9 days since we left Finikounda, but it seems like another world!

Taking a different, hillier route via Kaplani, turning off the main road at Neo Koroni, we reached Finikounda at about 4 pm. The motorhome provided a warm welcome - 88 degrees F inside!