In Greece in the Spring of 2015
A Motorhome Journey by Barry and Margaret Williamson Travel Log Written by Margaret Williamson Following our autumn motorhome journey across northern Europe to the far distant southeast of Bulgaria, and the onward winter journey to the far southwestern corner of the Greek mainland, we begin our springtime travels north to the Balkans and a route towards France and Ireland. The whole journey is summarised and linked together at: A European Journey 2014-2015 You can click on the following links: Continued at: North through the Balkans Spring 2015 Continued from: In Greece in the Winter of 2014/2015 How we got to Greece: UK to Greece Autumn 2014 Current Articles about Greece:
The Tourist Snoopers of Greece The Deterioration of Camping Finikes Campgrounds Open All Year in Greece Overnight Parking for Motorhomes in Greece A photographic record of these journeys can be found at: www.magbazpictures.com FEBRUARY 2015
Camping Ionion Beach, Glifa to Kato
Amigdales, Peloponnese 61miles (at 1,485 ft or 450 m high)
Free parking in side street in front of the village
church. N 37.51887 E 21.84664
After leaving Finikounda at the end of 2014, sadly disappointed with
Camping Finikes, we headed north to enjoy another very pleasant stay at
our favourite Greek campsite, Ionion Beach. See www.ionion-beach.gr. ACSI
Card rate 16 inc 16 amp elec and very hot showers in heated bathrooms. (Winter
15, or long-term deal with metered electricity possible.) Free WiFi (300 MB
daily limit). N 37.83640 E 21.13340
Once the unusually cold spell of stormy weather and north winds had
abated, we left Ionion Beach on 'Smokey Thursday'. This is the day when Greeks
cook souvlaki (kebabs) and cutlets over outdoor barbecues to celebrate the
start of a week of carnivorous indulgence before Carnival (meaning 'farewell to
meat'), which marks the beginning of the Orthodox Lent. As we dropped into
Vartholomio (6 miles) we could already see a pall of smoke and savour the
roasting pork! Walking round, we saw that every butcher and cafι had a grill on
the pavement, offering free kebabs and wine to customers, while families cooked
in their yards and gardens.
Round at the Salz und Pfeffer or Alati kai Piperi or Salt
& Pepper Restaurant (the best we know in the Peloponnese), we found
Michael Stergiopoulos and his Moroccan chef preparing the roast lamb for a
festive evening of dining, music and dance. With no other customers for lunch, they
still served us tender beef in tomato sauce and pork in white wine sauce from
the oven, cooked long and slow, with roast potatoes. Mike's father, Dimitri, talked
of the war years in this part of Greece. His earliest memory was his baptism
day on his third birthday, when Stuka bombers flew over on their way to bombard
Patras. Dimitri's father was among those taken prisoner by the Germans and,
thankfully, one of the few to be released. We left with hugs all round and have
subsequently reviewed this excellent restaurant on Trip Advisor:
Salz und Pfeffer: The restaurant, signed down a side turn off
the main shopping street, is open all day, every day, all year round quiet in
winter, busy in summer. You can also order a meal to take away. The skilful and
dedicated Moroccan chef has cooked there for many years and all the team speak
English, as well as German. The food is excellent, using local produce and the
best meat and fish to create dishes that are way above the average Greek
taverna meal, yet not above the average price. A bowl of plump olives (their
own produce), fresh bread and a bottle of chilled water always appear before
any dishes are ordered. When we went for lunch with two friends (one
vegetarian, one eating no red meat), a feast quickly followed: Greek salad with
feta cheese, horta (wild greens), saganaki (breaded cheese fried
in olive oil), stuffed peppers, chicken in a white wine sauce, tender oven-cooked
beef in a tomato sauce (for us two carnivores), roast potatoes, a carafe of
wine, with fresh apples and mandarin oranges to finish. All this on a quiet
weekday afternoon! Coffee is also available and there is good free WiFi for
customers. The enterprising Michael has undertaken a new venture this winter
selling home-produced olives, olive oil and preserves. The top quality extra
virgin oil is available in 3 sizes in smart glass bottles under his own label.
Driving south,
fully replete, we turned inland into the hills after Pirgos, passing Krestena.
Continued south-east on country roads via Grillos, Barakitima and Kalithea,
with some road works and rough stretches of potholes on the way. Finding
nowhere to park in Kalithea, we tried the next village, Kato Amigdales (10
miles before Andritsena).
Here we turned
into a good level wide street in front of the large church, with a view of
snow-dusted hilltops around us. It was well lit, quiet (apart from the loudspeaker van that
came round selling potatoes) and ideal for what proved to be a very cold night.
The village has a petrol station, a cafι and one tiny shop.
Kato Amigdales to Kalo Nero Beach,
Peloponnese 43 miles
Free parking alongside the sea front. N 37.29790
E 21.69530
On waking at 8 am
the temperature inside the motorhome was 3°C. In fact, it was warmer in the
fridge (3.5°) or in the garage (7°). On with the blown-air gas heating!
After a 10-mile
drive to the mountain village of Andritsena (at 2,400 ft or 730 m ), where snow
lay on the rooftops, we turned south to climb another 8 miles of empty road along
a mountain ridge to the World Heritage 'Temple in the Tent' at Vassae. The snow
on the roadside verges sparkled in bright sunshine as we reached almost 4,000
ft or 1200 m at the Temple of Epicurean Apollo, shrouded in its protective
marquee. This magnificent edifice, built around 420 BC and designed by Iktinos,
the architect of the Parthenon in Athens, stands on the lofty site of an
earlier temple. The story is that the people of Ancient Figalia, a settlement
lower down the mountain, dedicated it to Apollo Epicurus (the Helper) after
their village escaped the plague, but why did they choose this impossibly wild
and isolated spot? Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/the-temple-of-apollo.html
The site is open for
a small entry fee (and we have visited more than once before, climbing up by
bicycle from the coast at Tholo via New Figalia). We didn't go inside today, as
the snowy track down to the ticket office was frozen over and lethal, so we
took photos of the scene, drank coffee in the motorhome (no cafι up here!) and
drove on downhill to Perivolia.
Here we turned
left along a narrower road to the site of Ancient Figalia, down at 1,650 ft or
500 m, and parked for lunch, wonderfully peaceful under a clear blue sky.
Following the vague signs, it was a short uphill walk to the overgrown remains
of a small temple to Athena, overlooking the modern village whose church and
cemetery stand on the site of another two temples, dating from the 3rd C BC.
The walls of the ancient settlement can be seen stretching away up the hillside,
reminding us of Ston in Croatia. Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/nea-figalia.html
Leaving through
Figalia village, there is a short stretch of gravel track before a tarmac road
hair-pins down to 860 ft (260 m) to cross the old bridge over the Nidas River,
tumbling impressively below. The road then climbs steeply (beware fallen rocks)
to a height of over 2,000 ft or 610 m: a route we remember riding into a head
wind when cycling from Andritsena to Kiparissia. It's quicker by motorhome and
the Carado is handling it well. The only other life on this road today is
flocks of sheep and goats on the move.
Continued
south-west via Avlonas to Sidirokastro, then 2 miles west along E55 to the
coast at Kalo Nero (= Good Water). We crossed the main coastal road, went over
the defunct railway lines in Kalo Nero, then turned left along the sea front to
park in a quiet spot near a single Greek motorhome. Here we had a tranquil (and
much warmer) night.
Kalo Nero Beach to Pylos Harbour,
Peloponnese 49 miles
Free parking at the harbour. N 36.91633
E 21.69524
South down the
coast road, stopping 5 miles along to shop at Lidl, and on through Kiparissia
(town of cypresses, its campsite sadly long closed) and Filiatra, both busy on
this Saturday morning. Then we drove the hilly inland route via Gargaliani,
rather than the usual (and easier) coast road through Marathopoli. In Chora (at
30 miles and up at 1,070 ft/325 m) we passed the Museum with its treasures from
nearby Nestor's Palace, and called at the Hotel Melivoia of fond memory. The
owner remembered us from previous cycle tours and presented Margaret with an
orange!
Finally we
dropped down past Korifasio, crossed the coast road and took the narrow lane
through Petrochori village and on to the parking area at the end of the road,
by the Voidokilia Lagoon. Here we made lunch, then walked alongside the lagoon
to a well-hidden bird hide, our binoculars focused on 30 or more flamingos,
along with a few egrets, herons and ducks. Below the ruins of Old Pylos Castle,
we turned back along the shore past a handful of Greeks enjoying the beach on a
lovely calm sunny afternoon.
With no other
motorhomes parked at the lagoon (and a sign threatening a fine for 'camping'),
we decided to drive on to Pylos for the night. Filling up with diesel in
Gialova on the way, payment in cash was required: a symptom of the current
financial crisis.
We settled on the
spacious well-lit Pylos harbour (the far side with palm trees), along with 2 German
motorhomes and one Italian. (We've heard of motorhomers being moved on from the
commercial side of the harbour, where buses park.) No problem where we stood,
except on this Saturday night - Valentine's Day - when the nearby disco went on
into the early hours! Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/pylos--methoni.html
We celebrated
with indulgent chocolate cakes from the bakery in the square, then watched a
DVD Martin Scorsese's 'Mean Streets' (1973) with a young Robert de Nero.
Pylos Harbour to Petalidi, Peloponnese 20
miles
Free parking at the harbour. N 36.95758
E 21.93368
From Pylos we
drove north-east to Rizomilos (16 miles), where we turned south to the small
port and market town of Petalidi. There is plenty of well-lit space along the
waterfront, with easy access except on Friday mornings (market day)! There were
4 motorhomes in residence (2 Dutch, 1 German, 1 Scottish).
As the weather
turned stormy, we sheltered here for a couple of days, reading, planning and
watching the rain pour from a leaden sky. Thunder and lightning raged as the
waterfront turned into a stream, fed by rivulets pouring downhill through the
town. On Friday the sodden market stallholders were forced to pack up by 10.30
am, leaving bags of potatoes and oranges on the flooded pavements. A single
fisherman sat miserably behind a marble slab with his small catch and goat-kids
huddled under a plastic sheet in the back of a pick-up. A sorry scene all
round, the Taigetos mountains shrouded in cloud across the Gulf of Messinia.
Around the main
square there is an excellent cake shop (try the chocolate-mousse-mouse), a
friendly bakery (try the savoury pies) and a popular kafenion advertising
'All Coffees 1.50 with Free Water', where we took shelter after paddling round
the market in a heavy downpour.
Petalidi to Camping Paleologio, Mystras,
Sparta, Peloponnese 54 miles (230 m or 760 ft high)
Open all year. 23.50 inc 16
amp elec and showers. Free WiFi. Free oranges! N 37.07187 E 22.40531
After another
abrupt change in the weather, we crossed the Lagadas Pass to Sparta in warm
sunshine, with no wind or rain!
We drove north
via Rizomilos to Messini, then east past
Lidl and the airport into the thick of the congested city of Kalamata.
Following the SatNav and an occasional sign for 'Sparti' we inched our way past
the bus station and market onto road 82 for Sparta. This climbs from sea level
to 1,420 ft or 430 m, with a good layby at the top for coffee in the sunshine
(at 23 miles). Then the road zigzags down to 890 ft or 270 m to cross the
Nedontas River before climbing again with more Z-bends to the village of
Artemissia at 2,310 ft or 700 m (at 31 miles). Here mountain herbs and honey
are on sale and there is a shop and cafι by a little playground, well
remembered from cycling this route in the opposite direction.
Onwards and
upwards on the empty road, with a little snow still lying on the verges above
4,100 ft or 1240 m. At the top of the Lagada Pass at 38 miles (4,320 ft or 1309
m) stands the Taigetos Hotel, which looked closed, and a small tourist
cafι/gift shop. The cafe was open with a cheery log fire, so we lunched on
cheese & ham toasts, watched by a moose head nailed above the fireplace (reminding
us of Basil Fawlty) and a live grey parrot in a cage (Monty Python)! We doubt
whether moose ever roamed these mountains, but there were photos of successful
wild boar hunters on the walls.
On the serpentine
descent to Sparta it began to rain lightly, with deeper snow lying on the
verges. The road had slipped in a couple of places, making it difficult for
traffic coming uphill. There is a rock overhang (3.8 m height clearance)
followed by a very short tunnel (4 m high) at about 2,500 ft or 765 m, then more
zigzags down. It's a magnificent but challenging road, though we have cycled,
motorbiked and driven larger motorhomes (up to 8 m long) over it without
incident.
In Tripi, down at
1,650 ft or 500 m, the springs were gushing at the roadside. On through Magoula
to Paleologio (between Sparta and Mystra), where Pete stood behind the bar at
the campsite, welcoming as ever. Go where you like. I'll put the boiler on,
the water should be hot in an hour. Help yourself to oranges
As in December,
we were the only campers on this peaceful site below the Taigetos peaks,
shrouded in cloud.
We settled in
among the oranges, had hot showers and made a chocolate brownie cake and
burgers for supper. The WiFi works well and the oranges are as sweet and juicy as
ever, though the campsite facilities and the price only tempted us to stay for
2 nights!
After a breakfast
of fresh juice and porage next morning, Pete let Margaret use his own washing
machine, the laundry room being out of action while a new boiler is fitted. The
dhobi dried on the line, while we picked more oranges, washed the motorhome
down and checked our emails. In the evening we began watching the 2-part BBC
dramatisation of Sebastian Foulkes' WWI novel 'Birdsong' (one of the DVDs
bought from Zoe, the Methoni dentist, in aid of stray cats). We both loved the
book and couldn't imagine how it could be filmed but the acting and depiction
of the parallel love and war stories was brilliantly done. MARCH 2015
Sparta to Kokkinia Beach, Kato Glikovrissi,
Peloponnese 53 miles
Free parking alongside the sea
front. N 36.79870 E 22.78324
Leaving Paleologio laden with bags of oranges, we drove south-east from
Sparta on a quiet road, pausing in Goritsa (17 miles, up at 1,100 ft or 333 m)
for lunch. After another 8 miles, just before Geraki, we turned south for
Skala, driving through Lakonia's ancient olive groves, the roadside thick with
blood-red anemones.
In Skala we turned east, soon stopping to shop at Carrefour (roast
chicken) and then Lidl (in-store bakery) before continuing through Vlachiotis.
Leaving the main road, it was south through Ag Ioannis to Kato Glikovrissi.
Then we continued down the road (signed
Elia and Neapoli), past the long-dead site of Camping Lykourgos, to the coast at Kokkinia (named after the red
cliffs there). Turning right along the sea front, we found plenty of space to
park, empty in winter, before the road is blocked off where a new harbour is
under construction. There is a beach shower and tap (not guaranteed potable), a
rubbish skip and street lights. Here we parked for a good quiet night, eating a
roast chicken dinner and watching Part 2 of 'Birdsong', with Hungary standing
in well for the battlefields of the Somme.
Walking along the road in the other direction, we explored the existing
little harbour past a cafι/snack bar (closed) that had some parking space,
though not so attractive: sloping and on the through road.
Kokkinia Beach, Kato Glikovrissi to Boza
Beach, Peloponnese 11 miles
Free parking by a taverna at
the beach. N 36.70414 E 22.82050
Lovely warm sunshine and a leisurely breakfast (fresh orange juice and
Lidl croissants), then down the hilly coast road to Elia (an appropriate name meaning
Olive). This is also prime orange-growing land and we squeezed past a couple of
trucks being loaded with fruit. The road turned inland at Glifada to Assopos,
where we went round the village church following the sign for Papadianika but
soon turned off, opposite a supermarket, down the narrow lane signed Boza.
Boza Beach (2.5 miles from Assopos) had been recommended by Gita, cyclist, motorhomer and an old
German friend and it proved an excellent and quiet place to stay. We parked at
the end of the road outside the taverna (closed until Easter, with a reputedly
very motorhome-friendly owner). There are 2 taps, rubbish skips and a street
light. A lone German van was parked on rough land behind the taverna but the
ground looked soft from recent rain.
After lunch we took a short walk along the tiny beach and back round
the olive groves. The sun had brought bees out of their winter 'hivernation',
buzzing among the clover and round the water taps.
Curried leftover chicken for
dinner, with Italian coffee ice cream (thanks to Lidl). We watched the 1973
film 'Don't Look Now' with Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie, though the
real star was Venice playing itself and creating a wonderfully mystic
atmosphere.
Boza Beach to Pouda, Nr Vigklafia,
Peloponnese 29 miles
Free parking by a taverna near
the ferry pier. N 36.52177 E 22.98339
Another peaceful breakfast with Spartan orange juice, while watching a
cormorant drying its wings in the morning sun on the nearby rocks. Then we
returned 2.5 miles to Assopos and took the road south via Papadianika.
On reaching the imaginatively-named seaside village of Paralia (=
Beach!), 8 miles later, we parked for a walk along said Blue Flag beach. The
tiny harbour held a couple of fishing boats, with another out in the bay
pursued by a flock of sea gulls. After lunch here, we drove another 1.5 miles
south to Archangelos for another seaside walk through a closed and shuttered
settlement of holiday apartments, only inhabited by a pathetic stray dog.
Back on the main road, we drove on through Elika, a larger village with
garage, school and cafι. It was a good quiet road, twisting its way up and down
with the lie of the land, giving frequent sea views. In Ag Apostoli, a few
miles before Neapoli, we turned off south-west on the road through Viglafia,
ending at Pouda. A vehicle ferry crosses regularly from here to the island of
Elafonissos: a 20-minute voyage.
Seeing no suitable space by the ferry pier, we turned down a short lane
to a taverna (closed) called 'H Πoynta' or 'The Pouda'. There is a level grassy
area opposite the restaurant and another next to it, before the lane ends in
sand dunes. There is a No Camping sign for this protected area but we
understand that the taverna owner has permission for guests in motorhomes to
stay on his car park, so we did. We would certainly have eaten there, had it
been open! There was a tap outside the taverna, as well as rubbish bins and a
light.
Some internet sites give co-ordinates further along the track, in the
dunes, but the car park felt better to us. We had a quiet night, watching
Graham Greene's 'Brighton Rock' not the recent version with Helen Mirren but
the black & white 1947 film with a very young Richard Attenborough.
Brighton looked remarkably like the Blackpool where Margaret grew up! Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/boza-paralia--archangelos.html
Pouda, Nr Vigklafia to Agios Fokas,
Peloponnese 52 miles
Free parking by the shore. N 36.59539
E 23.06101 On a short walk to Pouda jetty, returning through the sand dunes, we
passed an information board picturing Grey Heron, Flamingo and Glossy Ibis but only
spotted a Crested Lark. The small vehicle ferry 'Kato Nisi' was just loading to
cross to the offshore island of Elafonissos. Cars were turning round on the
crowded deck ready to exit, meaning that we would have to reverse off with the
motorhome. As the weather had clouded over, with wind and rain in the air, we
decided against going over to the island on foot or bicycle, so left it
unvisited. We drove back via Ag Georgios to Ag Apostoli and the main road south to
the larger port of Neapoli. Turning along the sea front, past the ferry
terminal for Kithira, we were disappointed to find all the parking lay-bys
fenced off for road works. This made it difficult to get through, with nowhere
at all to stop. From Neapoli we continued south-east on a minor road, twisting and
turning through the hills via Lachi, thankfully bypassing the tight hillside
village of Ag Nikolaos at 13 miles, clustered round its church 500 ft (150 m)
above the sea. Then it was downhill through olive groves to the village of
Valtaki and on to the end of the road at the foot of the Lakonian peninsula, now
sealed all the way to the remote fishing harbour at Profitis Ilias, below cave-riddled
cliffs. We parked at the roadside for lunch, 17 miles since breakfast, and as
far south as a vehicle can go down this third finger of the Peloponnese (N
36.43680 E 23.11432). Walking round the tiny harbour we were followed by two beautiful
hopeful cats that would have made lovely pets. There was no-one around apart
from a couple at the house opposite the small church, who looked surprised to
see visitors! A track leads from the harbour to the SE corner of the peninsula
at Cape Maleas but it is a long and vertiginous hike. We recalled setting off to
walk it many years ago, only to turn back when we saw the drop below the
crumbling footpath. On the way back to Neapoli we parked at the roadside by Ag Nikolaos, where
a sign promised Free WiFi throughout the village (the first we'd seen in Greece
- and in such a remote place!) We even got a weak signal on the laptop: enough
to download incoming emails, though not strong enough to answer them. We retraced the morning's route north past Ag Apostoli, turning off
right 1.5 miles before Elika. The narrow mountain road climbed north-west via
Ag Mamas to Lira, up above 1,500 ft or 460 m, then descended to meet the east
coast of the peninsula at Nomia (3 miles south of Monemvasia), right by the
locked gates of the long-defunct Camping Paradise. It was on that campsite that
we first met our late friend Paul Walsh, a professor at the Australian
University of Newcastle, travelling with wife Genny and young son John. Sad
memories of our last meeting with them at their home Down Under, as Paul's
health began to fail. At Nomia we turned south for 6 miles, to the end of the sinuous coast
road at the little settlement of Ag Fokas. Parking on rough ground opposite the
short causeway to a tiny church, we wondered why this particular isolated spot
was listed in the 'Camperstop Europe' book, with nothing here but a tap. As
darkness fell the silent magic of the place became apparent, with the most
amazing view of the white church poised on its islet against a magnificent
seascape. We could have been in the Scottish Highlands, the west coast of
Ireland or by a New Zealand shore. After a quick supper of tomato soup and bacon butties, we began to
watch Peter Jackson's 'Hobbit' trilogy, but our eyes kept straying to the view
through the windscreen which surpassed the fantastical CG Images! With a full moon and a single
light shining from the churchyard, it was quiet as the grave. Agios Fokas to Annema Hotel, Palia
Monemvasia, Peloponnese 15 miles Open all year. www.annemahotel.com. Modern hotel/restaurant by the shore at Old
Monemvasia, across the bay from the rock fortress of Monemvasia. Double en-suite room with TV and fridge, low
season, 45 including full breakfast. Free WiFi. N 36.73406 E 23.03811 Before leaving Ag Fokas we looked round the magnificently sited
cemetery, noting that almost all the graves belonged to just two families, most
of whom had lived into or beyond their eighties. Then a windswept drive north past Nomia to Gefira (= Bridge), the
harbour town that developed after WW2, built by the causeway leading to the
rock fortress and lower town of Monemvasia. Parked on the quayside, we walked
briskly round the shops. There are a couple of bakeries, fruit & veg stores
and an old-fashioned grocer's, but most premises are cafes and restaurants
(with very few open). As waves were beginning to splash over the harbour walls,
we moved to the parking area across the causeway (which replaced a 14-arch
bridge in the early 19th C) for lunch. We had looked round Tourist Monemvasia when
last here (May 2014) and the upper town and fortress still remain closed for
'renovation'. We drove about 3 miles north from Gefira, then turned right (signed
Gerakas) to follow the shore of Old Monemvasia Bay for another 2 miles to Hotel
Annema, built right by the water looking straight across to the rock fortress.
When we stayed here for one night last May we promised ourselves (and owner,
Nikos) another visit and here we were, with a warm welcome from Nikos's
parents. Margaret had reviewed it on Trip Advisor: "Chanced on this lovely modern
family-run hotel in a quiet seaside spot, just a few miles from busy overpriced
Monemvasia. What a lucky find! The room had all we need (en-suite, fridge,
heater/air-con, TV), as well as a balcony with seats and a view over the bay to
the rock and fortress of Monemvasia. A substantial breakfast was included
(orange juice, coffee, scrambled eggs on toast, Nutella pancakes, more toast
with butter, jam and honey), lovingly prepared even though we were the only
guests! Dinner in the restaurant was another nice surprise, with plenty of choice,
beautifully cooked and served, and a dessert 'on the house'. The off-season
price was excellent value and we hope to return for longer next time! Room Tip: Rooms with balcony overlooking
the sea have a wonderful view of Monemvasia fortress."
Now we had a very comfortable couple of days at the quiet hotel,
enjoying evening meals and cooked breakfasts by the cosy log fire, using the
reliable free WiFi to write (and listen to Radio 4), watching Greek television
(as well as our own films played through the TV set), taking long hot showers and
(literally) recharging our batteries. A fill of water and a hook-up to run the
motorhome fridge were 'No Problem' to this extremely helpful family. Nikos has fluent English and talked us passionately through Greece's
current political and financial situation, as well as explaining the history of
the area. What is nice is that Britain's
role in Greece in WW2 was remembered with gratitude, when talk turned to German
atrocities and their current failure to address the matter of reparations. (Hence
our Union Flag on the motorhome!)
The village of Palia Monemvasia was the original harbour and settlement of Old
Monemvasia until it was supplanted by Gefira after the Second World War. The
ruined hilltop tower overlooking the village was one of a line of watch towers
built to send warning to the rock fortress, and subsequently serving as signal
stations for the Germans who had a wartime airfield in Molai, 10 miles to the NW.
Nikos even told us that the deep bay we overlook was used as a secret submarine
base by the Allies! On a short walk to the church of Ag Barbara and Ag Nikolaos, down by
the fishing boats, we lit candles, thought of recently deceased family and friends,
and counted our blessings. Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/around-monemvasia.html Palia Monemvasia to 'O Kavos' Taverna, Valtaki,
Nr Githio, Peloponnese 94 miles (the long way round!)
Free parking outside Taverna, 4 miles from Githio on Skala road. N 36.76258
E 22.59551
We left the Hotel
Annema after a substantial breakfast, with many thanks to the helpful
Stavropoulos family. We'll be back!
Driving NE the
coast road climbed 400 ft over a headland, then dropped to the turn-off for the
harbour of Limenas Geraka on an inlet. Shortly before the quayside, we stopped
on a parking area (7 miles from the hotel) that would be good for a night, at N
36.78831 E 23.08211.
From here we
followed a signed footpath on a 2-mile circular walk - up to the Ancient
Acropolis of Zarax on a windy hill overlooking the tiny port, then down a track
past the cemetery and church into the village. The view of the open sea and the
inlet below was worth the short climb on a stony track. Descending, we found
the cemetery overgrown, with some of the marble graves smashed in, and even a
few human bones thrown in a heap behind a wall! In contrast the little church
of Ag Nikolaos (patron saint of sailors, rather than Christmas, and very
popular round the coast) was beautifully maintained inside and out, its garden
full of fragrant freesia.
Down at the car
park another motorhome had arrived - Peter and Elaine in their Hymer, last seen
at Camping Finikes over Christmas. We chatted, made coffee and gave them some Spartan
oranges before continuing on the narrow road NW, climbing through the tiny
villages of Gerakas and Ag Ioannis to Reicha. Little sign of life, apart from
flocks of goats and (unusually) a rabbit, as rain began to fall and clouds
descended. This is the memorable route we cycled after a night at the Annema
Hotel in May 2014.
In Reicha, up at
1,720 ft or 520 m, we now turned right to drive north (rather than going left
to climb over the mountains to Metamorfossi, the route we cycled last year
see Cycle Ride No 5 in the Travel Log on this Link). Our onward road climbed to above 2,000 ft (620 m), then zigzagged
down to Lampokampos at 1,780 ft (540 m). Continuing NW, at 28 miles we reached 3,100
ft (940 m) at a road junction signed left for Sparta, right for Leonidio (our
intended destination). Here we had a tea break, rain falling steadily.
We turned right
as indicated (and confirmed by our map), then right again just before Kremasti
on a good road, again signed for Leonidio. The SatNav objected that this was an
'unpaved road' but, as it was newly surfaced, we ignored the advice to make a
U-turn and take a much longer route. We continued along smooth tarmac through
high scrub and woodland until, at 35 miles and a height of 3,080 ft (934 m), we
came to the end of the bitumen! A rough stony track confronted us, with no sign
of explanation. We stopped and walked to look round the next bend in the
pouring rain but there was no paved road as far as the eye could see. Perhaps we
should have heeded the SatNav, but there had been no hint that the new road
would suddenly end here, at the border from Lakonia into Arcadia. (We later
discovered that there is an unfinished mountain section of just 1.2 km before
the tarmac road continues!)
Seriously
annoyed, we had no choice but to retrace our route for 7 miles back to the road
junction past Kremasti. We then continued SW (signed Sparta) through the mountains
to the village of Ag Dimitrios at 1,300 ft (395 m). From here there is an
alternative minor road via Mari to Leonidio but we didn't risk another closed
road, since it was late in the afternoon and still raining heavily. Instead we
continued NW to Geraki, down at 990 ft (300 m), hoping to park there overnight.
Finding no space
at all in the tight village, it was onward and upward for the 9-mile ascent to
the mountain village of Kosmas, where we know there is space in the square (and
eventually a road down to Leonidio). But
while we climbed the rain turned to sleet, the sleet became snow and - on
reaching 2,970 ft or 900 m it began to settle on the steep road! Only 2 miles
short of Kosmas, we again turned back, as we had no wish to be stranded up
there or to take the serpentine road down to Leonidio in a snow storm!
Back at Geraki we
continued south, trusting it would be warmer by the coast, and turned SW at
Skala towards Githio. About 4 miles before the port (and 1 mile before Valtaki
Beach, which is listed in the 'Camperstop Europe' book) we spotted a brightly
lit roadside taverna (O Kavos) with empty car park. It was now dark and
still pouring with rain.
'Can we eat here
and park overnight?' Margaret asked the owners, who sat with their dogs by a
blazing log fire in the empty restaurant. 'Of course you can stay, whether you
want to eat or not'. We dined on hot toast drizzled with olive oil,
cheese-stuffed meatballs with piping hot chips, and freshly cooked donuts 'on
the house'. A great end to a frustrating day!
Valtaki to Plaka, Nr Leonidio, Peloponnese
60 miles
Free parking in square near harbour. N
37.14771 E 22.89383
Before leaving the Valtaki area, we drove 1 mile towards Githio to
check the spot listed in 'Camperstop Europe' at N 36.78883 E 22.58225. It's
down a narrow track signed Valtaki Beach and Archaeological Site, by a (closed)
taverna near a shipwreck. No-one there on the soft sand.
Then it was 10 miles back to Skala, to shop at Lidl and Carrefour and fill
up with diesel (for cash, as the garage card-reader 'wasn't working' a common
event now). Continuing east to the next village, Vlachiotis, we then headed
north via Gouves, climbing through hills of olive groves to meet yesterday's
route and turn east.
We followed it to Ag Dimitrios, at 22 miles and 1,300 ft (395 m), then
took the minor road north, which proved a good route over the border from
Lakonia, fully sealed, the only delay being a flock of goats. Wild flowers
cover the verges in red, white and blue, the almond trees are full of pink
blossom and the rain has stopped. Arcadia indeed! We parked for lunch at 31
miles, by a waterfall in the village of Mari up above 2,000 ft (620 m), then
zigzagged up past a monstrous wind farm to 2,770 ft (840 m ) before hairpinning
down again.
At Vretakaika we came to the northern end of the unfinished road that
had turned us back yesterday. Driving briefly south to see how far the tarmac
lasted, we found the sealed road ended just 1.2 km short of the point we had
reached. Again, there was no road sign indicating the roughly shod gap!
From Vretakaika our road continued north through Peleta, a tiny
inhabited village at 2,145 ft (650 m), then dropped via a series of steep
Z-bends to sea level at Poulithra a first-gear descent like bringing a plane
in to land. We do remember the thrill of riding this route on a cycle tour! At
the sea front we turned left for the harbour at Plaka, 2 miles before Leonidio.
Both our books (Bord Atlas and Camperstop Europe) list a
site at Plaka, well signposted as 'Camping Semeli', accessed from either end of
a narrow lane. The gates were locked and the phone number given in the books was
unobtainable! Fortunately the nearby square, between the beach and the
Coastguard Station, has plenty of well-lit parking space. Admittedly it has a
No Camping sign, perhaps enforced when Semeli is open, but no-one objected to
our stay.
We settled here by the beach shower and lifeguard tower, a stone's
throw from Foinikas Cafe with free WiFi, a public WC, a small fishing harbour
and a Fish Restaurant (called, appropriately, Margaret's). A young couple we
spoke with have spent the winter behind the square in Troubas Rooms, at a
charge of 200 per month + electricity. Again we wonder at the price of Greek
campsites (when you can find one open)!
Plaka to Kosmas, Peloponnese
20 miles (height 3,730 ft or 1130 m)
Free parking in square behind church. N 37.09171
E 22.7403
Lovely to wake to
the morning sun, here on the east coast of the Peloponnese. An old man walking
past to fish from the beach assured us in halting English that we were very
welcome and he loved tourists. He might not have been so friendly if our number
plate were D rather than GB, given the current economical/political situation. We drove along to
Leonidio (less than 3 miles) past crops of lettuce, broad beans and polytunnel
tomatoes. There is parking space on both sides of a bridge over the dry river
bed (at N 37.16631 E 22.85818) a good
place to stop before reaching the long narrow town that is best avoided in a
large vehicle! Walking through the busy town centre, we found a bank ATM and a
good bakery, then lunched on cheese & ham pies in the motorhome before
driving up to Kosmas. This is a
favourite route that we've driven, motorbiked and cycled several times; always
with astonishment that such a road was ever built. It climbs out of Leonidio
past a watch tower at 265 ft (80 m), with a memorial to the Greek Heroes killed
here in January 1949 (the civil war that followed WW2). Then it rises,
gradually but relentlessly, up the dramatic gorge populated only by goats. The
river, dry and overgrown in Leonidio, was flowing with blue snow-melt water
above 100 m its disappearance lower down the valley a mystery. At 760 ft (230 m)
we had the first glimpse of the incredible Eloni Monastery (a convent clamped
like a limpet on the rock face above). There is a layby a little further on at
825 ft (250 m), ideally placed to take a photograph of the soaring cliffs and white
convent buildings. On reaching a bridge at 960 ft (290 m), the road leaves the
river and zigzags more steeply heavenwards until it reaches Eloni (up at 1,750
ft or 530 m). Here, 12 miles from Plaka, we parked to take in the giddy view below
and walk into the convent, its gates open daily until 6 pm. This is the haunt
of Golden Eagles - and the legend of a light shining on the mountainside that
led the villagers of Eloni to find a holy icon at this very spot. As we approached,
a gentle priest emerged to greet us and unlock the chapel built into the rock.
Speaking only Greek, he made us feel very welcome as he offered a candle for us
to light. The tiny church was aglow with gold and silver icons and lamps, the
atmosphere magically peaceful. (No entry fee of course, just a box for
donations.) There are no nuns in residence in winter time (they have a newer
convent down in Leonidio), though several move up to Eloni in the summer, in
Holy Transhumance. Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/elona-monastery.html As we drove another
8 miles up to Kosmas it began to rain lightly, with a mist of low cloud
drifting across the road when we reached 2,740 ft (830 m). The maximum height
was 3,785 ft (1147 m) shortly before entering the tiny mountain village. Hard
to believe we were turned back by snow on the ascent from Geraki to Kosmas just
two days ago! We parked by the water fountains behind the substantial central
church, its clock chiming the hour and half hour (8 minutes late for each!)
until midnight. A good well lit place, cool in summer, though cold in winter. A short stroll
revealed only two places open: a pottery shop and the little restaurant &
rooms called O Maleatis Apollon where we have twice stayed the night
when cycling through. The newly restored 'Museum of Local Folk Lore &
Library' was closed, as always. The little council office announced on the
locked door that the Doctor would be in attendance for one hour on a Tuesday
morning back in February. Life must be hard for the few folk living up here year-round. Later we went to sit
by the log-burner in the Apollon and sampled the limited menu. There was
bean soup (though only one portion to share, as a German couple staying in the
rooms had already ordered it), meatballs bread-crumbed and fried (like Scotch
eggs without the eggs) and chips - all good and hot. Back in the
motorhome we rugged up warm and watched the second film of the 'Hobbit' series.
It wasn't hard to picture imaginary creatures living in the woods up here! Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/mounain-village-of-kosmas.html Kosmas to Plaka, Peloponnese 20 miles Free parking in square near harbour. N
37.14771 E 22.89383 Next morning
dawned dry, bright and sunny after a chilly night. We drove back down the
serpentine road, past the Eloni Monastery, descending to park once more in
Leonidio and buy bread. We also visited the hairdresser/barber shop, run by a
very competent young woman who transformed us both! Returning to
Plaka, we settled down in the quiet square again. Where have all the motorhomes
gone? We've hardly seen any since Christmas. After lunch the
sunshine lured us out on the bicycles, to ride down the coast to Poulithra
harbour (4 km), then uphill through Poulithra village. We soon turned off left
along a narrow lane (signed Ag Georgios) that led us strenuously up and down
across the hillside, with views of Poulithra Bay below. The road ended at a
cluster of new houses where we turned back and retraced our route (total
distance 18 km). Back at Plaka, we
rewarded ourselves with glasses of fresh Spartan orange juice before making a
chicken & veg curry. At Plaka Next day rain
poured once more and thunder rumbled over the dark sea. The weather is
certainly changeable, though not cold by the coast! We had a useful hour or two
in the nearby Cafι Foinikas, using the free WiFi while charging up both laptops
over excellent coffee. A chance to update the travelog and check emails, the £
to exchange rate (best for years) and the weather forecast (getting better).
We also checked on Camping Semeli again, seeing the gate open, but a workman
said it will open in 'maybe 3 weeks'. The following
day, dry again, we cycled round to Leonidio and sat in the sunshine for coffees
opposite the bakery before heading out up the Kosmas road. Our aim was to reach
the bridge up at 960 ft (290 m) a great climb with a tail wind and no traffic
whatsoever A favourite route, described when we drove it two days ago in the
motorhome, but so much more intensely observed from the saddle! Total distance
33 km with 1,000 ft of climbing: Climb out of
Leonidio past a watch tower at 265 ft (80 m), with a memorial to the Greek
Heroes killed here in January 1949 (the civil war that followed WW2). Then the
road rises, gradually but relentlessly, up the dramatic gorge populated only by
goats. The river, dry and overgrown in Leonidio, was flowing with blue
snow-melt water above 100 m its disappearance lower down the valley a
mystery. At 760 ft (230 m)
we had the first glimpse of the incredible Eloni Monastery (a convent clamped
like a limpet on the rock face above). There is a layby a little further on at
825 ft (250 m), ideally placed to take a photograph of the soaring cliffs and
white convent buildings. On reaching a bridge at 960 ft (290 m), the road
leaves the river and zigzags more steeply heavenwards until it reaches Eloni
(up at 1,750 ft or 530 m). At the bridge (16 km from Plaka) we ate the pies
we'd carried, then turned back for a swift descent into a cold head wind,
donning warm clothing, hats and gloves after riding up in shorts! From Leonidio
we returned round the lanes to Plaka. In the evening we
followed 'The Hobbit' by starting on the Lord of the Rings trilogy, a DVD set bought
some time ago. So 'The Fellowship of the Ring' and a box of After 8 mints was tonight's
treat! Plaka, Nr Leonidio to Camping Triton II,
Drepano, Nr Nafplio, Peloponnese 63 miles Open all year. www.tritonii.gr. Winter price 20
per night, or 17 for 7 days plus, or 300 per month (or longer-term rates negotiable),
inc 12 amp elec, good hot showers and use of kitchen with fridges, freezer and
gas rings. Free WiFi. N 37.53173 E
22.89056 We didn't want to leave Plaka after 5 nights in the quiet little square
by the sea but the refillable gas bottles were running low. So, on a fine
Sunday morning it was north to Nafplio, where there are 3 service stations with
LPG (see the article: LPG in Greece on this website). We avoided the impossibly narrow centre of Leonidio by turning right across
the dry riverbed and joining the main road to the east of the town. The coastal
road twisted and turned, at around 400 ft (120 m) above the coves, marinas and
fish farm glimpsed below. This looks a more prosperous area of Greece, with
second homes built facing the sea. A couple of camping signs pointed down
unlikely steep narrow lanes to beach sites undoubtedly closed. Our road turned inland through Ag Andreas and busy Astros, meeting the
minor coast road again at 33 miles, a couple of miles north of Paralio Astros.
Here below the junction we turned off into a large parking area by the beach
for coffee. Listed in Camperstop Europe (N 37.44475 E22.74800), there was a lone German campervan
by the palm trees. Further north up the coast, via Xiropigadou and Kiveri, we kept right
at Miloi, past ancient Lerna (home of the 9-headed Hydra, killed by Heracles as
the second of his 12 Labours) and round the curve of Nafplio Bay to Nea Kios.
The first place with 'Autogas' was an Avin petrol station at 49 miles on the
left (N 37.58919 E 22.75850). The
helpful attendant, an Iraqi refugee, quickly topped up the refillable bottles
that Autogas Leisure had fitted last August. It was much easier than
refuelling the fitted gas tanks on our previous American RVs. Then, a little way along the road towards Nafplio, the highway was
blocked with an unmarked diversion round narrow lanes. At every junction there
was a heavy police presence, pointing us further away from Nafplio each time we
asked 'Epidavros?' What was going on a political rally, a VIP visit, a
football or basket match? Eventually, after passing below the walls of Ancient
Tiryns, we met the Epidavros road at a roundabout to the east of Nafplio. The
cause of all the road closures became evident: the Nafplio Marathon! From the roundabout we turned south-east to the village of Drepano,
from where a mile-long narrow lane leads to the beach and no less than four
campsites (three of them seasonal). 'Triton II' is the last one, on the
seafront next to 'New Triton'. Confused, we checked both. 'New Triton' had a
helpful woman in Reception but doesn't actually open until April, while 'Triton
II' is open all year, with some long-stay winter campers, but its Reception cabin
was empty and locked! The secret is to go and ring the bell at the nice new on-site
house, where the friendly English-speaking manager, Christine Kremastioti, is always available but there
is no sign to tell you that. After all, this is Greece! We were delighted to find the campsite much improved since a visit many
years ago. Here is another site we can actually recommend! We settled on one of
many level hedged pitches (each with its own tap and electric hook-up, and no
low trees) and made lunch. Then it was time to recharge our batteries, fill the
water, dump the waste and catch up on-line with good free WiFi. At Camping Triton II, Drepano A busy couple of days followed, using the generous campsite facilities:
a laundry with large fast washing machine (and drier, not needed thanks to sun
and wind), clean showers with constant hot water, and a modern kitchen where
Margaret pressure-cooked a batch of marmalade on the gas range, still using the
plentiful sweet oranges picked at the campsite at Sparta! We were soon recognised by a group of German campers who had decamped
from Camping Finikes in Finikounda after Christmas as did we. A total of 5 German couples and 2 Dutch couples told Margaret
that they were disappointed with the state of Finikes this winter and won't be returning.
One Dutch couple even said they preferred the space on the nearby Camping
Anemomilos (supposedly closed), moving there after 2 or 3 days at Finikes. All
this with no prompting - just chatting in the kitchen about campsites they knew
in the Peloponnese for a winter stay. See our Report on the Deterioration
at Camping Finikes. Triton
II does appear to be a good winter choice, with a daily price of 10 for a
month's stay and even less longer term. It's also easy to leave a
motorhome/caravan here and get a bus to Athens, perhaps to fly home for
Christmas as two couples (one Swedish, one German) had done. There are shops an
easy walk or cycle ride away in Drepano village, or a little further along the
beach in the resort of Tolo. The nearest Lidl store is only 7 miles, on the
road into Nafplio. The one negative we experienced was the plethora of cats
hanging round the site. Margaret will happily feed one or two but nine became a
nuisance! There were also a couple of stray dogs, soon deterred with our trusty
Dog Dazer after trying to steal one of Barry's sandals. We
did cycle the lane into Drepano (a couple of small supermarkets, bakery,
pharmacy, post office) and lunched on club sandwiches and fresh hot chips in a cosy
bar. The tavernas were closed up or only open in the evening. For
entertainment we watched part 2 of the Lord of the Rings trilogy 'The Two
Towers' - and listened to the budget on Radio 4, hopefully George Osborne's
last. A marmalade and ginger cake (M's own microwave recipe) was a good
accompaniment. Drepano to Irion Beach, Peloponnese 22
miles (via Lidl, Nafplio) Free parking past harbour. N
37.47750 E 23.0009 Leaving Drepano we detoured back towards Nafplio to shop at Lidl (7
miles, on the left with a view of the castle above). It's a good one with an
in-store bakery for croissants, donuts, rolls and cheese pies, as well as the
usual basics. Back through Drepano, then south-east along the coast past a couple of
closed campsites before Camping Iria Beach, which is open all year (see ACSI
Card book). We paused for a look, remembering a pleasant stay very many years
ago but are sad to say that, like so many Greek campsites, it has deteriorated,
with no investment, worn out facilities and little space among the statics.
There is even a charge (1.50 per day) for the reportedly unreliable WiFi. Not tempted to linger, we drove on past a small taverna (closed) at the
fishing harbour, to a quiet parking area at the end of the road, complete with
beach shower and rubbish bins. After lunch we took a bracing walk along the sand
to a headland in a strong cold wind. Two types of shells covered the shore:
pretty spiral ones, and bivalves like small scallops. Flocks of seagulls
followed the fishing boats home, while jackdaws gathered over the ploughed
fields behind us. We stayed for a quiet night, eating pizza and local strawberries. Irion Beach to Salandi Beach, Nr Didyma,
Peloponnese 33 miles Free parking by beach. N
37.44748 E 23.12474 On waking at 7 am it was 10°C inside; when we left 3 hours later the
temperature had reached 22°C, warmed only by the sun! We drove 2 miles north through the village of Irion, between fields of
artichokes and lettuces, to join the road east through a fertile land of
oranges and olives to Karnezeika. Then the road hair-pinned steeply up, with
giddy views of the sea below, reaching over 1,300 ft (395 m) at Kanapitsa. (This
route is part of a circular cycle ride we had undertaken more than once from
Camping Iria Beach, through bleak mountains, their sides scarred by stone and
marble quarries.) The road then dropped to 790 ft (240 m), to meet the main
road from Corinth at 14 miles. Before turning south for the Argolid Peninsula, we drove a short way
north (following our old cycle route) to see if a fondly remembered cafι
serving hot pork from a spit-roast pig was still there. Sadly not! But the 2
mile stretch, to the road junction for Corinth/Athens or Epidavros Theatre, was
lined with shops selling local cheeses or traditional bread from wood-fired
ovens. Most had large car parks, along what must be a busy tourist and coach route
in the season. Turning back, we headed south towards Kranidi. The road zigzagged up to
1,900 ft (575 m) on the western flanks of Mount Didimo before descending. A
fine new road turned off for Didima down at 500 ft (150 m), bypassing the
village unless you need to squeeze through it in search of a post office! We
found a 'postal agency' in the little supermarket there. Soon after Didima we turned west to the coast at Salandi (or Saladi or
Salanti transliteration at work). Our destination was only 4 miles along this
minor road but across the grain of the land, climbing up to 840 ft (255 m)
before dropping to sea level. After passing the gaunt wreck of an abandoned
10-storey hotel (of which more later), we turned left along a short track past
a tiny white church to a very large gravel parking area between the trees and
the shore. This site (listed in Camperstop Europe) proved an excellent
place for a peaceful stay, with no-one but a passing flock of goats. After lunch we walked round to explore the concrete remains of the
derelict 'Saladi Beach Holiday Village'. Between the white pebble beach and the
hotel (its windows all smashed and the interior stripped out) there were dozens
of vandalised buildings. These were once bars, cafes, holiday studios, a crumbling
mini-golf course and other sports grounds. The huge outdoor pool with diving
board held a little fetid water and a pile of broken plastic chairs. Crude graffiti
of naked headless figures decorated the pool walls. The whole area spooked us
what had happened? It looked like an East European holiday site for party
workers and union members, abandoned half a century ago. Perhaps it was
condemned after subsidence or earthquake? Cheap concrete certainly doesn't
weather well, unlike the stones of ancient sites! Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/sarandi-beach.html A bitterly cold wind blew us back to the motorhome, to pressure-cook a
beef & veg stew and watch the final part of Lord of the Rings: 'The Return
of the King'. It was a very peaceful night, no lights, no noise just the
ghosts of former holidaymakers. Salandi Beach to Kilada, Peloponnese 14
miles Free parking on
waterfront. N 37.41364 E 23.12659 Fresh snow this morning on the peaks across the water, but at Salandi
Beach it's dry and sunny and the wind has dropped. On a short walk along the white
pebble shore, towards the new 'Costa Bianca' development of holiday homes, we
saw many black sea urchins on the rocks below the clear water. Reputedly edible,
they have a vicious sting. We drove 4 miles back over the 840 ft (255 m) pass to join the road below
Didima, then continued south towards Kranidi. There was a Silk petrol station
with 'Car Gas' at 10 miles, then a Lidl store a mile later, just past the last turn
for Kilada. After a quick stop for the Lidl bakery (who can resist?) we drove a
level easy 3 miles north-west to Kilada and parked in a parking area on the
palm-fringed waterfront. Walking round we found Kilada a very pleasant fishing port on a large sheltered
bay due south of Salandi. It has a working boatyard and busy yacht marina, with
some interesting craft moored including one from Weymouth. The small
supermarket sold big black Kalamata Olives (the best) vacuum-packed in olive
oil: a great find. We'd been searching for some as a gift for weeks! Later we dined at the nearby To Mouragio Restaurant: tasty fried
courgette strips with cheese, followed by chicken fillet in a bacon, mushroom
& cream sauce. Sadly the promised free WiFi wasn't working but the meal was
excellent. Today is the Spring Equinox and the days are getting longer, so that
it was light enough for another stroll after dinner, watching the fishermen
checking and mending their nets. Kilada to Salandi Beach, Nr Didyma,
Peloponnese 10 miles Free parking by beach. N
37.44748 E 23.12474 A fine morning with no wind at all encouraged us to drive back to
Salandi Beach - a very quiet safe place, ideal for leaving the motorhome while
we cycled. The return journey was 4 miles shorter, since we didn't revisit Lidl
near Kranidi. The wide gravel parking area at Salandi Beach is now shared with
a French campervan but there is plenty of space for all. We cycled west along the coast, past the 'Costa Bianca' development and
through tiny Ag Ioannis. After 3 km the lane turned inland, climbing sharply.
Soon it began to rain, so we turned round at 5 km to freewheel back to the
motorhome for lunch. In the late afternoon, once the rain stopped, we walked in the other
direction beyond the ruins of the Saladi Beach Holiday Village, up a track past
a little chapel, until we saw the masts of Kilada marina across the bay. We
hope to explore this further by bicycle tomorrow. Salandi Beach to Camping Triton II, Drepano,
Nr Nafplio, Peloponnese 106 miles (round the Argolid Peninsula) Open all year. www.tritonii.gr. Winter price 20 per night,
or 17 for 7 days plus, or 300 per month (or longer-term rates negotiable),
inc 12 amp elec, good hot showers and use of kitchen with fridges, freezer and
gas rings. Free WiFi. N 37.53173 E 22.89056 As the next day was dull, grey and overcast, the decision was to move
on round the Argolid Peninsula and find another place for the night. We drove
south for 11 miles to Lidl (to stock up once more on bread and water: a good
diet), then continued for another 6 miles, bypassing Kranidi, to the coast at
Portoxeli. Turn right at the roundabout on arriving at the port and there is ample
free parking space opposite the moored yachts, listed in Camperstop Europe: N
37.32690 E 23.14377. We just stopped here
for lunch but it would be OK overnight, if a little noisy. Walking round to find
a bank machine, Portoxeli seemed a larger, more upmarket port than Kilada, with
boatyard, marina, AB supermarket, car hire (for the yachties) and restaurants. We continued south for another 3 miles to Kosta at the south-west tip
of the Argolid, from where vehicle ferries cross to the nearby island of
Spetses. There was no place to stop in Kosta and no information about ferries.
All the car parks were fenced off except for one with a charge and a barrier.
Naturally this was empty, with cars double-parked along the road! Turning back, we drove round the foot of the peninsula to Ermioni and
on to Galatas. Our map and SatNav showed this route as a main road but it was a
narrow pot-holed country lane making its way up and down the hillsides, with no
opportunity to stop. The tiny port of Ermioni sounds pretty it wasn't. We
found ourselves negotiating a nightmare warren of tight cobbled lanes,
stone-walled houses and right angle bends, the only reasonable way through
being a 'No Entry'! With hindsight, we should have turned left earlier to
bypass the place but there were no direction or warning signs and our maps sent
us into the labyrinth! Barry's skill got us through with one inch clearance of
the projecting roof tiles. It would have been impossible to turn back or to
make it in anything remotely wider, longer or higher. Continuing east along the rough coast road, we passed Camping Hydra's
Wave near Thermissia closed until early April. The long empty island of Ydra
loomed dark across the water, with just a cluster of houses above its port.
This island once home to Leonard Cohen and still the haunt of writers and
artists - is traffic-free apart from electric service vehicles. Tourist boats
are met by porters with horses or donkeys. We once went over for a day but
there was little to do except go for a walk, buy a meal and wait for the next
ferry back. At last, after the village of Vlachaika, the road improved. We had
crossed an administrative border from Argolidos to South Attikis and Attiki can
evidently afford bitumen! On round the south-east corner of the Argolid
Peninsula lay the port of Galatas, at 56 miles. The island of Poros looked close
enough for a bridge but is reached by a short ferry trip. Camperstop Europe suggests
a spot by Galatas harbour but the waterfront was full of parked cars and we
couldn't even stop for a brew-up. It was now 5.45 pm and starting to rain. Some
days do not go as well as others! Heading north-west up a fine corniche road, poised about 100 m above
the misty sea below, there was no chance of parking. At Archea Epidavros we
abandoned the coast and turned inland, perhaps for a night parked at the
magnificent Theatre of Ancient Epidavros. The rain turned to a steady downpour
as the evening wore on, prompting us to bypass the theatre and continue west
towards Nafplio. We turned off for Drepano and returned to the creature comforts of Camping
Triton II: electricity, hot showers, WiFi and well-drained hard-standing
paramount amongst them. Back at Camping Triton II,
Drepano A couple of rainy days followed (this really has been our wettest
winter ever in Greece). We spent time on the usual domestic chores, on route
planning and on the internet. The free site WiFi was reliable enough to carry British TV live on the
laptop (via www.filmon.com). Watching some
excellent documentaries, travel and wildlife on BBC4 made a refreshing factual
change from the fantasy world of Tolkien's Hobbits, Elves, Dwarves and Wizards which
have dominated our screen recently! 25 March is a national holiday in Greece, commemorating the start of
the War of Independence (from Ottoman rule) in 1821. The 25th was also a
significant date for us (20 Years on the Road) and we thank the many friends who sent their
congratulations. Sadly, cold heavy showers put a dampener on public events and we
postponed a planned excursion to a taverna. Instead we celebrated at home with
Margaret's 'Poor Man's Moussaka' (made with spuds instead of aubergines, which
Barry isn't fond of) and Lemon Bakewell Tart (done with home-made lemon curd). On a warmer drier morning, thunder rumbling in the hills, we cycled
into Tolo (9 km return), past the remains of the Ancient city of Assini on a
rocky promontory.
A walk from Triton II along the beach to Assini can mean paddling across a
stream when it's flowing (as now). Tolo is a package resort, the hotels and
eateries mostly closed off-season, so we bought tasty pies at the bakery and
returned to camp for lunch. Another short cycle ride followed (8 km return),
east from the village of Drepano along a lane skirting the southern edge of the
sea inlet. In the inevitable little church at the end of the road we lit
candles before returning, just in time to escape yet more rain.
Drepano to Afrodite's Waters Camperstop,
Ancient Corinth 45 miles Open all year. 10 per night with
electricity, WC and hot shower, water and dump, kitchen area with wash-up and gas
rings. (No WiFi) N 37.91143 E 22.87917 The weather is at last warming up, with April in its sights. Leaving
Drepano, we headed west towards Nafplio to shop at Lidl (7 miles), then north
on the Argos road for another 4 miles to revisit the Mycenean palace fortress
of 'Tiryns of the Great Walls', a favourite site with us. Homer's 'wall-girt Tiryns' is unmistakeable, its massive Cyclopean
walls rising high above the road on the right. We turned off into the large car
park and had an interesting chat with the young woman in the ticket office
(open daily 8 am-3 pm, entry 3, Seniors 2). She regretted that the new
building, destined to be souvenir shop/cafι/etc, would not open due to Greece's
financial situation. At least work to preserve the ancient remains continues,
with a small team at work. We were just delighted to have the World Heritage
site to ourselves: no tourist infrastructure means no coach parties, no lines
of school children, no official guides droning on
So much quieter, and
therefore more atmospheric, than Ancient Mycenae these days. Set on a low hill, Tiryns was inhabited from Neolithic times. In the
Late Bronze Age (14-13th century BC), the hill was fortified, enclosing within
its massive stone walls the three-tier palace complex of the ruling family. An
earthquake and fire in the late 13th C BC damaged the buildings of the upper
citadel, gradually bringing the palace system of government to an end here. The
acropolis was abandoned, though a settlement grew up on the lower levels. Tiryns
was finally destroyed by the rising power of nearby Argos in the 5th C BC; the
famous Roman traveller Pausanias found the site deserted in the 2nd C AD. It
was never Romanised or overbuilt, remaining a colossal testament to the
architectural prowess of the Mycenean period. See www.ancient-greece.org/archaeology/tiryns.html Historical significance aside, it's a wonderful site to explore. We
climbed to the Upper Citadel, through the remains of the great gate (identical
in structure to the famous Lion Gate at Mycenae itself). You can imagine the ruler
up here in the Megaron (throne room), frescoes on the floors and walls,
receiving his subjects and performing ceremonies - or just take in the view of
Nafplio Bay, seen between the hill-top castles of Nafplio and Argos. Galleries built into the upper walls link a series of store rooms with
pointed arches. Below, the Middle Citadel housed palace workshops, while the
Lower Citadel was a self-contained settlement with houses, stores and
workshops, 28 rooms with pointed entrances in the inner walls, access to two
underground springs and another monumental gate. Only stones remain but what
stones! How was it built, how were they lifted? Keeping the stones that remain
upright seems challenging enough today! Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/ancient-tiryns.html After lunch down in the empty car park, we drove north past Nea
Tirinthia between extensive orange groves to Mikines. Roadside stalls sold the
local oranges at 3 for a 10 kg bag! Turning off into Mikines (the modern
village near Ancient Mycenae) at 18 miles, we checked out Camping Atreus
(officially open in 2 days' time on 1 April) but found no-one around. The tiny
Camping Mycenae, further along, is open all year (and very friendly) but we
decided to turn and leave. The village, consisting of souvenir shops, rooms and
restaurants, was busy with coaches on their way to/from the tourist trap
of Ancient Mycenae at the end of the road. After the peace of Tiryns we didn't want
the crowds - and we have been to the site and museum more than once before. See
www.ancient-greece.org/archaeology/mycenae.html
We continued towards Corinth along the old main road, rather than the
new E65 toll motorway. Passing under the motorway, we found the Camperstop (400
m from the archaeological site and museum of Ancient Corinth, which lies to the
west of modern Corinth). Luckily our destination, listed in Camperstop
Europe and the Bordatlas, is well signed, along a narrow road
through the village (unsuitable larger motorhomes: we were on the limit at 7 m
long). At first sight the Camperstop looks like a rough and ready car park
beyond the owners' house but we were impressed by the warm welcome from Spiros
and his family. The site would be crowded if all 30 spaces were taken but there
was only one other motorhome in residence. With hook-ups, drinking water, dump,
WC and shower, children's playground, picnic table, outdoor kitchen and piping
hot water, it's a good base for a night or two to visit Corinth (ancient or
modern). This is also a great place to safely leave a motorhome while taking the
hourly train to Athens, for a short visit or a flight home. Spiros will arrange
transport to/from the local station (4 km away) and the rail journey, which
goes on to Athens Airport, takes about an hour. Tickets are currently 18
return, or half-price if over 65. Sounds like a bargain! We were handed a local map and a list of the Camperstop facilities in 6
languages, as well as a multilingual list of all the fruit, veg, wine, olives
and oil that are on sale from the family farm! Spiros's little daughter gave us
a complimentary dish of grape 'spoon-sweet'each, and there will be a lamb-roast
here on Orthodox Easter Sunday (12 April). Wish we could stay very few Greek
campsites treat us this well! And the name 'Afrodite's Water' refers to the spring in a small cave,
just 100 metres away along a footpath. Afrodite/Venus was supposed to bathe
there but when we went to look, Margaret voted for the hot shower! At Ancient Corinth Next day we walked into the village at Ancient Corinth and ran the
gamut of souvenir shops and eateries along the way to the archaeological site
and museum. This is a popular tourist destination, with several coaches in the
car park bringing guided parties and school groups to file round the extensive ruins
of the Greco-Roman city. We avoided the crowds by arriving at lunchtime, when
most were leaving. The site is open from 8 am to 3 pm, tickets 6, Seniors 3
(including the museum). See www.guideofgreece.com/ancient-corinth
The City State of Ancient Corinth grew up below the acropolis of
Acrocorinth - an amazing mountain-top site,
inhabited continuously from Archaic times to the early 19th century. The
medieval fortress that remains dominates the whole area and makes a spectacular
viewpoint. We didn't go up to Acrocorinth this time (having made the ascent by
both bicycle and motorbike in the past). It is possible to drive up the hill
(about 4 km) and park at least the coaches do. We had a glorious couple of hours wandering among the substantial remains
of the temples, fountains and roadways of the ancient city, with dozing cats
and darting lizards for company. Dating from the 8th C BC, Corinth grew in commercial
and cultural importance and was known especially for its pottery. By the 5th C
BC it was a major power in ancient Greece, second only to Athens, but was
eventually destroyed by the Romans in 146 BC. The city was resettled under
Julius Caesar a century later, the start of a new period of prosperity, when it
became a Roman provincial capital and remained inhabited until the Middle Ages.
In the Roman forum stands the Bema, the platform from which
orators including St Paul - addressed the crowd. St Paul had chosen Corinth
as his missionary base in Greece, living there for over a year while working as
a tent-maker (later writing the Letters to the Corinthians that are among his
Epistles in the New Testament). In 52 AD Paul, accused of conducting illegal
teaching, was brought before the Roman Proconsul Gallio on the Bema.
Gallio refused to judge what he considered a mere religious dispute among the
Jews and he acquitted Paul. If only Pontius Pilate had been as wise! The museum contains a wealth of finds from the prehistoric, Greek,
Roman and Byzantine periods, including mosaics and sculpture. In 1990 much of
the valuable collection was stolen in a night time raid, then subsequently
recovered in the USA, although a large amount of money destined for museum
staff wages was lost! We rounded off an excellent afternoon with a taverna meal, sitting out
on the balcony directly overlooking the ancient site in the afternoon sunshine.
Earlier, both site and restaurant had been busy with coach parties but now we
had it all to ourselves, enjoying personal attention, freshly squeezed orange
juice, Greek salad and moussaka. What more could we ask? Click: http://www.magbazpictures.com/ancient-corinth.html APRIL 2015 Ancient Corinth to Camping Akrata Beach,
Akrata, Gulf of Corinth 81 miles (including 40 mile detour to Lake
Vouliagmenis) Open all year (phone ahead low
season, on +30-2696031988). www.akrata-beach-camping.gr 18.60 inc 10 amp elec and hot showers. Long
term winter rate negotiable. Free WiFi.
N 38.17380 E 22.33830 It was only 2 miles from the Camperstop to the E65 motorway, though the
access is difficult along narrow tortuous lanes. Thankfully, nothing was coming
the other way. We drove a few miles east to the Isthmia exit, shopped at the AB
supermarket (roast chicken!), then took the old main road across the deep cut
of the Corinth Canal. Turn immediately left after the Canal to drive north to
the busy spa resort of Loutraki, known for its casinos and bottled Loutraki
Water, at 8 miles. Through the centre of Loutraki, continue along the palm-lined
waterfront, then climb inland (max 890 ft or 270 m) to the hill village of
Perachora at 17 miles. Here, turn west along a minor road (partly unsealed,
with road works) for 5 miles to the far end of Lake Vouliagmenis. Here we found
a large parking area next to a couple of waterside tavernas at N 38.03185 E 22.87323 - a good overnight spot (with
lights, bins and toilets) outside the high season. Indeed, there was a 'No
Camping May to October' sign, when it would be busy with coaches. Today, just
one bus turned up for a taverna lunch. Out with the bicycles, despite a strong wind, for a ride round the small
lake. There is actually a short channel from the lake into the Gulf of Corinth,
so we cycled to the outlet and back in each direction: a total ride of 11 km. A
campsite on the eastern end of the lake was closed. After lunch we had another short cycle ride, west to the end of the
road, where there is a car park at the tip of the peninsula (total 5 km). A rough
footpath runs from here to the lighthouse but most visitors come to descend the
new walkway and steps to the remains of the Heraion, an 8th C BC temple of Hera
and ancient pilgrimage centre, down by the wild and rocky shore. See www.wondergreece.gr/v1/en/Regions/Korinthia_Prefecture/Culture/Archaelogical_sites/3288-Heraion_Perachora
Entry is free and information is in English and Greek. We first came
here many years ago, inspired by reading Dilys Powell's 'An Affair of the
Heart' - see www.cretanvista.co.uk/goodreadingx2.htm.
Dilys, a British journalist and writer, lived in Perachora while her husband
Humphrey Payne, Director of the British School of Archaeology in Athens, led
the excavation of this remote site in 1932-34. Sadly, he died in 1936 at the
young age of 34. We also recommend her book about Crete and Knossos 'The Villa
Ariadne'. The new infrastructure at the Heraion is impressive, as we had to
scramble down the cliff side on our previous visit! It was good to see 'British
Archaeologist Humphrey Payne' mentioned three times on the information boards. After returning to the motorhome, we drove back through Loutraki to
Corinth, to join the E65 'Olympia Odos'
westbound. It can hardly be called a motorway, as only one carriageway is
complete, divided down the middle with cones. This, the extremely busy transit
between Patras and Corinth, has been the most dangerous highwayin Greece for years,
with road works, contraflow and regular accidents. The only alternative is the
old slow coastal road, through many towns. It was a relief to escape the E65 at
the Akrata exit, after paying one toll of 6.30 leaving a 'motorway' with
regular speed limits of 60 kph (less than 40 mph) and No Overtaking signs
(regularly ignored). Our exit was impeded by road works vehicles but we finally reached
Akrata and turned west for the mile along the Old National Road. After crossing
a river bridge, turn right (signed) for the campsite down by the pebbly shore
of the Gulf of Corinth. Arriving at 5 pm after the slow dangerous journey, it
was a delight to be welcomed by the resident site owner, Manolis, who speaks
very good English (having an Australian wife). He showed us round the excellent
facilities on his tidy and well organised site before leaving us to settle onto
a waterfront pitch, our only neighbours a German campervan. At Camping Akrata Beach,
Akrata We had a couple of very pleasant, if windy, days on this site, with
plentiful hot water, clean modern facilities and a very helpful and caring
owner. The WiFi worked well and we caught up on-line, as well as doing the
usual laundry, cleaning and route planning. It was also good to get a tankful
of good drinking water, with no aftertaste or limescale. A short walk along the pebble beach ended where the river disgorged
into the sea, forming a wide brown streak in the blue of the Gulf. Flocks of
seagulls patrolled this confluence, which attracts fish. It was lovely to watch
the resident Hoopoe, probing the ground with its long slender beak right below
our motorhome window. The little campsite bar/restaurant opened at the weekend (Easter in
most of Europe, though the Greek Orthodox celebration comes a week later this
year) and we ate there one evening: tasty saganaki, Greek salad, souvlaki and
chips, all freshly made and hot. This campsite, hitherto unknown to us, came as a great surprise, giving
a third Greek campsite we can actually recommend now (yes, only three, alongside
Ionion Beach and Triton II!) Margaret reviewed Akrata Beach on the ACSI
website: "A very well maintained campsite
by the pebble shore of the Gulf of Corinth. Convenient for
Athens-Corinth-Patras highway (Akrata exit) and for Patras ferries. The very
helpful resident owner, Manolis, cares for the site and his guests. Small
restaurant/bar and shop. Excellent modern toilets and showers, laundry with
sinks and washing machine, plentiful hot water. Free WiFi throughout the site.
Many statics, but good touring pitches with sea view. The tidiness and
cleanliness of the site stand out compared with most Greek campgrounds."
Continued at: North through the Balkans Spring 2015
|